what does changing the pins in and out do? what difference does it make?

Ran the new v2 center diff gear today and it is AWESOME. The design changes make a lot of lock up with 10 pins. I found the same thing Mantis did with the new gear and end up liking 6 pins for my track in it current condition and layout. I could have gone maybe even less. Convinced that this now has the possibility of setting up for any track or condition. Removing pins is just like changing to thinner fluid. The more I dove with it and the smoother I was with my throttle inputs I was rewarded with the fastest lap times I have seen yet and super consistent easy to drive truck.

From...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...rvices-50.html

There is one thing definite. After the truck is run everything will change. Fresh oil, fresh springs, no added weight from grit,grime or dirt.. It is a given that it will be different after I race it, but I also want a baseline to see how much changes.

As far as the MDF.. I would look into some glass.. Are you using a digital level to check if your board is true? A bubble is not going to provide any accuracy beyond what the eye can see. Try a 6 inch digital level that will measure to the hundreths at least, then you can see how level your board is. Glass is about the truest surface I have ever found.

All this being said, it is an off-road car, I'm kinda overboard with it, and truth is I doubt any of this makes a difference on a beat up BMX track driving a car that 6 lbs. It is the Placebo effect, if you think it's better.... it is!

I own the "others" and it seems like they wear out at about the same rate..but the kicker is they are much easier to work on..I mean seriously if you going to a brass bushing for your outdrives you should at least make the diffs easy to get to..

If RCShox will let me I will post up some pictures tonight. The pins are on the accelerating side of the ball. Meaning when you are on the power the pin is pushed into the ball. The harder you accelerate the harder it pushes. This slows the diff action down on power and gives a better balance of front to rear power. The diff has 10 balls and 10 pins. So leaving out some pins out increases the diff action. Think of it as like a gear diff: the more pins the thicker the fluid and the less the thinner the fluid. Now off power or under braking the pins have no pressure on the balls and it allows for full diff action.

The first thing I noticed with the design was the truck was way better and more consistent under braking and making turns into tight corners. The diff gave the truck a better brake balance front to rear and all but removed late corner brake push I got with the slipper going into some corners. Gains on power let the truck turn tight but without braking loose coming out of the corners. Some V1 diff users might have noticed push coming out of tight corners on high bite tracks because of too much power transfer to the front wheels. The V2 diff balances the power better to the rear to help the truck accelerate harder and in control. The truck also has a better balance through jump sections of the track that at times with the slipper made the truck catch a bad bounce or require major corrections to save.

I feel the truck is just smoother to drive now. The V2 diff made my truck more consistent to drive and resulted in quicker lap times.

I highly discourage doing this to soft race tires. It takes all of the give out of the tire also gives it that "bacon" look where the tape folds. You may gain a little grip going down the straight, but you lose it in low speed sections.

I tried this and now have ruined a brand new set of green barcodes

Yea the whole thing locks together like a puzzle which makes it very durable, but also means a lot of disassembly for maintenance.

This is exactly what I have been fighting since putting the diff in. It's manageable with a light trigger finger, but definitely hurts.

got pick up the up grade kit from rpp hobby

Dangit, Marcus forgot to send back my Hitec servo horn, I got the whole thing ripped apart and ready to throw my brand new 7955 back in. Too tired to drive to hobby shop now, oh well gotta do it tomorrow.

thank you , i kinda understand now.

You wont get that with the V2. You can push the truck harder and it has a real good balanced power feel to it now.

i love this truck. i just got the new up grade kit its out now.thanks to this site its a nicer kit now.

The surface has to be flat (glass) and LEVEL (jack screws).

The bubble level is so you can level out the flat surface. It is totally adequate for the purpose. I have a digital level for the camber/caster gauge on my 1:1 car and IMO there is no additional accuracy to be had.

I use a $10 Ikea coffee table in my workroom/spare bedroom, and a left over cabinet door at the track.

MDF is a great product. BUT if has ever been stored standing up it WILL WARP. Like on the ship from China

Yeah I have done some woodworking....and RC racing