Sorry guys but this has probably been asked before, however my search of 15 minutes has not provided my answer and I'm sure I have seen it before I even thought I would get the center diff. What is the general agreement of diff oils to run with the center diff. Prior to 11 weeks ago I had all the time in the world to find the answer, new racer in the family.

Thanks in advance, Gary

Thanks for searching, Sand.

It's been sitting around 7k,5k. Some are even at 3k I hear.

They've been keeping it very close together as far as the weights because the center diff in theory doesn't want the thicker or thinner oil on one end.

I have 5k in front and rear, and it helped me from 7k/10k I had before. Truck was great on a large 8th track the way I had it before, But the 5/5 on an indoor track got the truck to come alive again.

Ultimately I think i'd put 5 or 7 in each diff and drive happy till you really get a feel for it.

7k front and 5k rear is my favorite. 5k front and 5k rear is a good place to start too. The 5k front will make the truck steer more.

just a update the 550 novaks fit with no mod but are a hell to get out. nexts do they spin in the right way out of the box? the motor is nice and the esc look good to. its set up out of the box and i like the set up they have from the box. i cant get pics till friday sorry guys. i do love this truck now. waht is the littel servo like 4in long wires for ?

Hey Cameron, how many pins did you run to work good on that v2 center diff?

Are the v2 pistons that much more noticeably different?

Up until I I went to saddle packs I had run nothing but Gens ace and nano tech in my trucks and buggy. I decided to go with pro match saddles due to higher c rating, great price and great performance. About a month ago I wanted to order another 4s for my buggy and both the Gens and promatch were out of stock. I have always wondered how much of a difference the "good batteries" make so I decided to splurge for the $165.00 reedy pack. As soon as I received the pack I plugged it up to my lipo meter to discover that it had a bad cell "1.15v". I called associated and they were very nice. In about 2.5 Weeks after me paying to ship the battery back to California from Georgia and missing a race my new battery arrives. I charge it and head to the track. The pack did have a little more punch than the Gens but not sure it's worth almost 3 times the $. Oh well, I thought to myself at least I finally have a top quality pack. When I vet home I pull the body off of my buggy to discover that half of the hard case on the end of my top quality pack is missing, as I look a little closer I also notice the words "made in China" on the side. I'm sure the reedy packs are great and that sort of thing just happens, not trying to bash them at all, but I did decide that from now on I will be buying the cheaper made in China batteries instead of the really expensive made in China batteries.

New to off-road. I am looking to buy the new SC10 4x4 what's the best speedo, motor, lipo, and servo you guys are using?

i run the hobbywing sct pro esc. tenshock sc411 4600 motor. hitec 7950HV servo, and promatch racing lipos awesome setup never had a single issue of heat or any glitches.

Right now I am running all of them at PRCR but on a bigger track I could see using less. I was going to try 2 less in the main but I had a diff puke fluid and I had to change it before the race started and ran out of time to make anymore changes.

With the pistons I had a hard time with the really light oil on my track because it is pretty smooth and has good bite. Most of the jumps are jump land turn and so we don't have the forward momentum that Marcus talks about in his description set-ups. So my track was full of bench drops and the truck would unsettle and bottom out when trying to land, brake, and turn. With the new pistons I can run the heaver fluid (30 front / 25 rear) and still have all the benefits of the 2 stage pistons. The truck lands and sticks but still very good around the track. I feel it is due mostly to the lower piston being thicker now and has less flex as it moves through the oil and gives a better seal when they are closed.

I currently have all of RCShox SC10 4x4 products. (that I know about ) and my truck has never been better. One of my test I did was put the complete truck back to my old set up. with Acc-bar settings, shock pistons, yellow springs, and slipper. What a pile! It felt like so much work to try and go fast and hit the line around the track.

Thanks guys for the quick response. I thought reading post in the past the fluid was going to be lighter. Will start with 5k/5k.

LOL nice. so the does the v2 slipper help rotate tight turns better? jump better in the air?

what did you notice it do better than v1? Luckily for me I don't run that difficult a track.

If your running 2600 15C on this truck I think you will quickly see that $30 go up in smoke. Ain't so cheap when a lipo fire causes a total loss of your truck and anything that happens to be around it.

Never said it was in this truck.

I bought Reedy 60C 5500s for this truck because I knew I wanted to get something "good"....the reedy failed.

The cheap batteries so far have been in my 2wd, my TC and my rally car.....

Just got some Haiyin packs in that will get tested out at the next WOR at the Motodome.

Ok Good cheap batteries are fine as long as they can perform safely.

Yea I just about got the ready instead of the Orion, but was $10 more to get 90c instead of 60C at the time.

Kinda funny how even though we run an Associated "Electronics" brand truck, seems few actually use AE's electrical components

i am very leery of cheap lipos, my rc's have way to much money in them to cheap out on batteries. it's like building a high performance car and putting cheap regular gas in it...what's the point....