Yes.

cheers LL, looks to be a Revtech in my near future. The old Orca was a quick motor and still able to run fast, but when it reaches 5-6 mins, it gets too hot (160's) and there was considerable change. Ive read elsewhere the Revtechs are quite good at keeping cool and performing well.

Any motor will do that over geared or over timed. You said you were running boosted and I think the Revtechs are better for blinky. For boosted, you might want to look at a D3 or Reedy.

Of course, I still like LRPs for both

Needs ...

X12 Chassis
Rear Bottom Plate
Rear Cross Brace
Rear Shock Mount Plate
Front Shock Mount Plate
Rear Motor Bulkheads (made shorter)
Damper Tubes
Rear Standoffs (Cross Brace)
Front Standoffs (Shock Mount)
Ball studs + Ball Cups for Tubes
Longer Shock Shaft

Wants ...

The Front Ends top arm, bottom arm and steering blocks are harder plastic and the servo saver is stiffer.

X12 - Exploded Parts View
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=8250

XII Link - Exploded Parts View
http://www.teamxray.com/teamxray/sho...p?file_id=6509

Yep boosted. I did the right thing with the RS, started off with lower timing numbers, and built it up. Ive played around with timing vs gearing also, found a sweet spot, but its only good enough to run with the fast guys, and I loose too much once it gets hot. If i keep the temps down, the final 2 mins are great, but performance has been a little low for the first 6 mins, so i cant make up the ground. In the final at our last race, i went with performance, made my way to second, and in the final 2 mins, made the car as wide as possible

Was this on a wide open high speed track, or a tight track, what size racing surface.

Unless it's wide open, I go for a punchy infield setup, and give away a bit of top end, keeps the temps cooler, with a lot less fade.

At iic last year I had to re-think things, as that track was WFO.
There, you geared tall, and just tried to roll the car as efficiently as possible thru the infield.

But for club racing it's different.

Thanks for the response Definately tighter track, and with lowish grip. The car still had grea punch through the infield and was a rocket down the straight, but at the 5-6 min mark, the intial punch was gone, but still very decent down the straight. Its not the batt either as its a brand new reedy 6500. We will be running out bigger race at a track which is still quite tight (under 3 CRC carpets wide) but will have a much longer straight, so im sure things will be different as far as setup. Im looking for the best bang for buck motor, that is good with temps as well as punch.

For instance, in blinky tc, im running a 17.5t LRP, because they dont mind the heat and never fade with very decent performance. But i found the same motor in 1s, sluggish and i could never get it to run hard. So im looking for advice on the 1s boosted motors

LRP, MurfDogg, Reedy, TP, D1 & D3 all work well for 13.5 boost.
Each will require a different setup.
Mostly in can timing and gearing, as the boost parameters seem close for all of them.
I usually start out with no turbo on the RS, but with full boost, and find the roll for the layout, car should peak halfway down the straight
Then add turbo to suit for high speed layout.

For a tight track, I use turbo for punch with no delay, and less boost.
Look for .5s drop from first to last lap.
Outright lap time is not important, as the race is 8m long.

Axle, you should try the optional silver rotor on your Orca !

Well its the old black can 17.5, its seen more than its fair share of races. The RX2 looks like a nice motor, i may try this or a Reedy. Local stock will depend on what I go with. Cheers

Thanks

Has anyone sent their Futaba receiver in to get new antenna?

How much was it and how long did it take?

Pre-emptive thanks

You can get a replacement antenna http://www.ebay.com/itm/Futaba-Repla...item35b124069a and do it yourself.
You can google it or youtube it how to do it...shouldn't be too hard

Once you open the recievers case the antenna just pulls straight off with no problems no need to send in. Actually I know people that run there futaba recievers without the antenna wire to make that clean wiring job with no ill affect to signal at all,used on indoor carpet race's.This is on the newer recievers614 i believe is part# but I have tried it with the older bigger recievers and it works as well.

Once you open the recievers case the antenna just pulls straight off with no problems no need to send in. Actually I know people that run there futaba recievers without the antenna wire to make that clean wiring job with no ill affect to signal at all,used on indoor carpet race's.This is on the newer recievers 614 I believe is part# but I have tried it with the older bigger recievers and it works as well.