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02-27-2012 | 07:49 AM
Castor: Angle of the kingpin in relation to a vertical plane as viewed from the side of the car.
Increase the angle - Make the car more stable out of the turn as well as down the straights and increase steering entering a turn.
Decreasing the angle - Make the car feel more “touchy” at high speeds and help steering while exiting the turn. Less Castor – More front grip, more steering.
Lower Castor Angle – Better on slippery, inconsistent & rough surface.
Higher Castor Angle – Better on smooth, high traction track.
Reactive Castor – Amount of castor change when the front end of the car is compressing (diving) or decompressing (rising).
Increase the angle – Make the car react quicker & offer more steering.
Decrease the angle – make the car easier to drive smoothly into corners.
My experience is that with less static and reactive caster, the car tends to corner in an almost linear manner, holding a certain grip through the corner without a heavy turn-in or push on exit. More static and reactive caster tends to make the car "twitch" into the corner as you go off power, and then push a bit on exit. I would suggest less static and reactive caster for a flowing track, and more for a track (such as mine) that has lots of tight hairpins.
Just remember, what works for one car and driver might not work for another.
Increase the angle - Make the car more stable out of the turn as well as down the straights and increase steering entering a turn.
Decreasing the angle - Make the car feel more “touchy” at high speeds and help steering while exiting the turn. Less Castor – More front grip, more steering.
Lower Castor Angle – Better on slippery, inconsistent & rough surface.
Higher Castor Angle – Better on smooth, high traction track.
Reactive Castor – Amount of castor change when the front end of the car is compressing (diving) or decompressing (rising).
Increase the angle – Make the car react quicker & offer more steering.
Decrease the angle – make the car easier to drive smoothly into corners.
My experience is that with less static and reactive caster, the car tends to corner in an almost linear manner, holding a certain grip through the corner without a heavy turn-in or push on exit. More static and reactive caster tends to make the car "twitch" into the corner as you go off power, and then push a bit on exit. I would suggest less static and reactive caster for a flowing track, and more for a track (such as mine) that has lots of tight hairpins.
Just remember, what works for one car and driver might not work for another.
02-27-2012 | 07:54 AM
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http://www.serpentamerica.com/shop/p...&cat=29&page=1
02-27-2012 | 12:54 PM
02-27-2012 | 01:58 PM
Hi all, with WGT dying at our club and 12th getting bigger and bigger I thought about getting into 12th scale.
Been offered a Serpent S120 t-bar for real cheap. Only thing is that the metal rear end is slightly bent and needs replacing.
Been looking online and not able to find new rear ends for them.
Am I better off just splashing out and getting a S120L?
I really just wanted a cheapish car to get into it and see if I like it. Are there any other good cars that are bang for buck?
Been offered a Serpent S120 t-bar for real cheap. Only thing is that the metal rear end is slightly bent and needs replacing.
Been looking online and not able to find new rear ends for them.
Am I better off just splashing out and getting a S120L?
I really just wanted a cheapish car to get into it and see if I like it. Are there any other good cars that are bang for buck?
Chris
Last edited by chris moore; 02-27-2012 at 02:14 PM.
02-27-2012 | 02:33 PM
02-27-2012 | 05:11 PM
My own personal opinion and experience.
When the car dives into the turn the king pins stand up giving less castor. Less castor is less steering mainly in the middle of the turn. So basically more reactive has less steering. If you want the car to diff out less more reactive will help. I dont think the initial steering feel changes with more or less reactive as long as you are starting out with the same degree of castor. If you change from 5-10 and dont readjust the castor it will not be the same as before. Also don't assume just because the clips or spacers are the same side to side your castor angle is the same. Its best you use a camber gauge against the front of the arm/steering block/upper eyelet to tell you if they are the same. I personally like 4-5 deg castor measuring it this way.
When the car dives into the turn the king pins stand up giving less castor. Less castor is less steering mainly in the middle of the turn. So basically more reactive has less steering. If you want the car to diff out less more reactive will help. I dont think the initial steering feel changes with more or less reactive as long as you are starting out with the same degree of castor. If you change from 5-10 and dont readjust the castor it will not be the same as before. Also don't assume just because the clips or spacers are the same side to side your castor angle is the same. Its best you use a camber gauge against the front of the arm/steering block/upper eyelet to tell you if they are the same. I personally like 4-5 deg castor measuring it this way.
Thanks.
03-04-2012 | 09:53 PM
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 39
03-05-2012 | 11:47 AM
Guys wondering what your suggestion would be for the best performer 17.5 motor for my 12th. We run open boost 1s. My old Orca just isnt cutting it anymore and need a new powerplant. Is there anywhere i can find the results from some of the big races along with a list of motors used? Cheers
03-05-2012 | 11:57 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (20)
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 1,879
From: Fort Collins, CO
Guys wondering what your suggestion would be for the best performer 17.5 motor for my 12th. We run open boost 1s. My old Orca just isnt cutting it anymore and need a new powerplant. Is there anywhere i can find the results from some of the big races along with a list of motors used? Cheers