Team Associated RC8.2e Thread
#631
Guys, I have a question regarding the caster adjusters, blue/red ones. I can only read 2 of them, one says 1601 and 1602. Which ones are you supposed to use to get the correct caster? The markings are hard to read and I bent a hinge pin cause I installed the wrong set im guessing. Any help appreciated
I haven't gotten an RC8.2e kit, so I don't know if they include the 14, 16 and 18 degree spacers. I'm going to assume that they do though.
14 degree spacers:
- The blue spacer will have the hole ABOVE the middle of the spacer when the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block
- The red spacer will have the hole BELOW the middle of the spacer then the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block
16 degree spacers:
- The blue spacer will have the hole AT the middle of the spacer when the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block
- The red spacer will have the hole AT the middle of the spacer then the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block
18 degree spacers:
- The blue spacer will have the hole BELOW the middle of the spacer when the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block
- The red spacer will have the hole ABOVE the middle of the spacer then the spacer is oriented correctly to go in the caster block
#632
talked to 2 of the local LHS today about these guys, and both of them say there may be issues with parts support. Something about their distributor not dealing with AE anymore. They can still get parts just not as efficiently as before, and they will not be stocking much.
Where are these at in terms of parts failure? I don't mind bringing items in from the US through a-main or tower or wherever, but i don't want to be paying shipping all the time.
For general use is there a list of "should haves" outside of the norm? A-arms etc...
I am still really tempted to pull the trigger on one, but if parts are going to be an issue i may have to rethink.
Im a basher but far from a destroyer, had an ERBE for a year and change and apart from maintenance the only thing i ever broke was a wing.
Where are these at in terms of parts failure? I don't mind bringing items in from the US through a-main or tower or wherever, but i don't want to be paying shipping all the time.
For general use is there a list of "should haves" outside of the norm? A-arms etc...
I am still really tempted to pull the trigger on one, but if parts are going to be an issue i may have to rethink.
Im a basher but far from a destroyer, had an ERBE for a year and change and apart from maintenance the only thing i ever broke was a wing.
#633
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 816
Build is going quick, im up to the rear gear box..
So far im missing 2 3x6mm screws that hold the front hinge pin bushings in place. And the gasket for the front gearbox. Ripped both the pin retainer boots too..Dam that hole is tight.Oh well, shrink wrap works better anyway..
So far im missing 2 3x6mm screws that hold the front hinge pin bushings in place. And the gasket for the front gearbox. Ripped both the pin retainer boots too..Dam that hole is tight.Oh well, shrink wrap works better anyway..
#639
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 980
From: Orlando, Fl
Use fine grit sandpaper. I think I use 330 grit.
Grease the shaft of the outdrive that goes through the spur gear or diff cup. This does 2 things. It reduces wear as the out drive rotates in the hole by lubricating and reducing friction, and the grease also creates a bit of a seal helping prevent leakage. If you are not doing it already you should grease all of the o-rings and the slots that the o rings sit in also. Do the large ones too, not just the tiny ones on the shaft. Don't worry about a little grease getting in the diff oil. It wont hurt anything.
Grease the shaft of the outdrive that goes through the spur gear or diff cup. This does 2 things. It reduces wear as the out drive rotates in the hole by lubricating and reducing friction, and the grease also creates a bit of a seal helping prevent leakage. If you are not doing it already you should grease all of the o-rings and the slots that the o rings sit in also. Do the large ones too, not just the tiny ones on the shaft. Don't worry about a little grease getting in the diff oil. It wont hurt anything.
#640
Im sure it would be fine. I don't use the AE grease either. The tube that came with my kit is still unopened. I have been using a big tub of gorilla snot grease I bought a couple years back. I like it because its super sticky and it stacks to gears and doesn't fling off like most grease does. I just use it on everything since its always handy sitting open on my bench. Anything is better than nothing, so use what ya got. If its a pretty thick grease I'm sure it will be fine.
#642
So I just got done putting my kit together today and I noticed while doing so that one of the front springs is almost like a painted silver instead of the shiny metal. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm contemplating calling AE and seeing if they will send me a new front spring. The mis-matching colors are bothering me haha. Must be my OCD
#643
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 816
So I just got done putting my kit together today and I noticed while doing so that one of the front springs is almost like a painted silver instead of the shiny metal. Has anyone else had this issue? I'm contemplating calling AE and seeing if they will send me a new front spring. The mis-matching colors are bothering me haha. Must be my OCD
#645
Tech Regular
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 333
From: Mid TN
Never occurred to me I might have them on backward.

Did you trim off part of the window mask to get those trim lines around the windows after you painted the body?



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