RC10B4.1 FT/WC
02-15-2012 | 08:18 AM
Tech Addict
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 727
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
I got a b4.1 ft 3 months ago, been reading every post on here since then and ran it for the first time 2 weeks back. my track is very bumpy, medium traction but the track gets pretty dusty. running what seems to be popular setup options front- 30wt,#2, brown, rear-27.5, #2, green. Losi bk bar pink in back, losi taper pin front. most everything is mounted up (shock towers, camber links, etc) to match wild cherry setup he has mentioned to use multiple times. key thing is I am not on the +8mm chassis. lrp sphere esc with a novak ballistic 10.5 on board.
car is a handful. I am a decent driver (drive an sc10, run mostly in the amain of 36 drivers). buggy jumps awkward, pushes on slow and high speed steering, is loose as can be under power. Ive tuned down the power which has helped.
my main question. I just got losi bb and plan on converting. honestly I do not want to put much more $ into if I should just buy the worlds edition instead. the +8mm is around $50 and I can buy a worlds for $250. Im a low budget racer, need to spend my $ in the important areas. honest feedback, some setup tips to get this thing rolling or simply go buy a worlds and be done with it? appreciate the help, as I mentioned have been reading for about 3 months and you guys are great on the forum.
car is a handful. I am a decent driver (drive an sc10, run mostly in the amain of 36 drivers). buggy jumps awkward, pushes on slow and high speed steering, is loose as can be under power. Ive tuned down the power which has helped.
my main question. I just got losi bb and plan on converting. honestly I do not want to put much more $ into if I should just buy the worlds edition instead. the +8mm is around $50 and I can buy a worlds for $250. Im a low budget racer, need to spend my $ in the important areas. honest feedback, some setup tips to get this thing rolling or simply go buy a worlds and be done with it? appreciate the help, as I mentioned have been reading for about 3 months and you guys are great on the forum.
02-15-2012 | 08:24 AM
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,739
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
I got a b4.1 ft 3 months ago, been reading every post on here since then and ran it for the first time 2 weeks back. my track is very bumpy, medium traction but the track gets pretty dusty. running what seems to be popular setup options front- 30wt,#2, brown, rear-27.5, #2, green. Losi bk bar pink in back, losi taper pin front. most everything is mounted up (shock towers, camber links, etc) to match wild cherry setup he has mentioned to use multiple times. key thing is I am not on the +8mm chassis. lrp sphere esc with a novak ballistic 10.5 on board.
car is a handful. I am a decent driver (drive an sc10, run mostly in the amain of 36 drivers). buggy jumps awkward, pushes on slow and high speed steering, is loose as can be under power. Ive tuned down the power which has helped.
my main question. I just got losi bb and plan on converting. honestly I do not want to put much more $ into if I should just buy the worlds edition instead. the +8mm is around $50 and I can buy a worlds for $250. Im a low budget racer, need to spend my $ in the important areas. honest feedback, some setup tips to get this thing rolling or simply go buy a worlds and be done with it? appreciate the help, as I mentioned have been reading for about 3 months and you guys are great on the forum.
car is a handful. I am a decent driver (drive an sc10, run mostly in the amain of 36 drivers). buggy jumps awkward, pushes on slow and high speed steering, is loose as can be under power. Ive tuned down the power which has helped.
my main question. I just got losi bb and plan on converting. honestly I do not want to put much more $ into if I should just buy the worlds edition instead. the +8mm is around $50 and I can buy a worlds for $250. Im a low budget racer, need to spend my $ in the important areas. honest feedback, some setup tips to get this thing rolling or simply go buy a worlds and be done with it? appreciate the help, as I mentioned have been reading for about 3 months and you guys are great on the forum.
That makes me question the BK bar/Tapper pin tire choice...but I would guess it's what the fast buggy guys are using? It doesn't take much dust on a med. bite track for a car to go from the penthouse to the outhouse on a BK style tire...IMO
02-15-2012 | 09:01 AM
Tech Adept
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 205
From: NH
thanks guys for the responses. honestly it might be the tire choice. I bought them as they appeared to be a popular combo, although I hadnt been to my track or asked any of the buggy guys what they are running. big error on my part.
as far as setup, you know my spring combos. running inner tower, outer arm in front & rear. camber inner tower, inner hub in front. 3 spacers under inner ball stud. inner tower middle hub in rear. 3 spacers under ball stud. -3 camber front, -2 camber rear. stock rear hub (0?) dont know my rear toe. looking closely looks as tough it has 3oz weight front of tranny. also has 1/4oz each rear triangle. that was all there when I got it. let me know what else you might need.
as far as setup, you know my spring combos. running inner tower, outer arm in front & rear. camber inner tower, inner hub in front. 3 spacers under inner ball stud. inner tower middle hub in rear. 3 spacers under ball stud. -3 camber front, -2 camber rear. stock rear hub (0?) dont know my rear toe. looking closely looks as tough it has 3oz weight front of tranny. also has 1/4oz each rear triangle. that was all there when I got it. let me know what else you might need.
02-15-2012 | 09:27 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
I noticed a few things about the reedy setups. everyone running 78 tooth spurs for one. Moves the motor forward. Also noticed 3 deg inboard rear toe with everyone and the addition of 1 shim on the rear inner ball stud.
02-15-2012 | 10:43 AM
DaveW
I go to the track to have fun but I would like to get faster. When I change things sometimes I will change a second or even third thing to see what happens with it. Right now everyone is on JConcepts tires while I use Scrubs on the front and alternate between Sweeps and Suburbs on the back. Right now I have 3* of rear toe. When I change to 2.5* this coming Sunday I will see what the car does and then make small changes, battery placement and/or springs, and then go from there. Usually if I make the A I am in the back but having a good time is higher on the list than running the fastest lap of the day. There is a guy at the track that I run the same speed as and we trades smart remarks all day about who is going to beat the other. The last two weeks I qualified higher but he finished higher and I am more tired of that than finishing towards the back.
I go to the track to have fun but I would like to get faster. When I change things sometimes I will change a second or even third thing to see what happens with it. Right now everyone is on JConcepts tires while I use Scrubs on the front and alternate between Sweeps and Suburbs on the back. Right now I have 3* of rear toe. When I change to 2.5* this coming Sunday I will see what the car does and then make small changes, battery placement and/or springs, and then go from there. Usually if I make the A I am in the back but having a good time is higher on the list than running the fastest lap of the day. There is a guy at the track that I run the same speed as and we trades smart remarks all day about who is going to beat the other. The last two weeks I qualified higher but he finished higher and I am more tired of that than finishing towards the back.
02-15-2012 | 10:50 AM
Tech Addict
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Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 727
From: Halifax, Nova Scotia, Canada
thanks guys for the responses. honestly it might be the tire choice. I bought them as they appeared to be a popular combo, although I hadnt been to my track or asked any of the buggy guys what they are running. big error on my part.
as far as setup, you know my spring combos. running inner tower, outer arm in front & rear. camber inner tower, inner hub in front. 3 spacers under inner ball stud. inner tower middle hub in rear. 3 spacers under ball stud. -3 camber front, -2 camber rear. stock rear hub (0?) dont know my rear toe. looking closely looks as tough it has 3oz weight front of tranny. also has 1/4oz each rear triangle. that was all there when I got it. let me know what else you might need.
as far as setup, you know my spring combos. running inner tower, outer arm in front & rear. camber inner tower, inner hub in front. 3 spacers under inner ball stud. inner tower middle hub in rear. 3 spacers under ball stud. -3 camber front, -2 camber rear. stock rear hub (0?) dont know my rear toe. looking closely looks as tough it has 3oz weight front of tranny. also has 1/4oz each rear triangle. that was all there when I got it. let me know what else you might need.
Camber link in the rear looks good as do the hubs. You could pick up a set of .5* hubs or the new style inner rear arm mount with adjustable toe in and try 3.5*.
Each square lead weight is a 1/4 oz. I'd be pretty impressed if you were able to cram 3 oz.'s in there
I'd go to -1* camber all around, that will help settle the rear end down a bit. Slipper isn't super tight is it?
02-15-2012 | 10:50 AM
thats good to know as I just ordered new JConcepts 78t and 81t spurs for my 8.5 I have coming......finally making the switch from stock to mod.
02-15-2012 | 10:56 AM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (12)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 205
From: NH
That's the first thing for you to address is rear tires.
Camber link in the rear looks good as do the hubs. You could pick up a set of .5* hubs or the new style inner rear arm mount with adjustable toe in and try 3.5*.
Each square lead weight is a 1/4 oz. I'd be pretty impressed if you were able to cram 3 oz.'s in there
I'd go to -1* camber all around, that will help settle the rear end down a bit. Slipper isn't super tight is it?
Camber link in the rear looks good as do the hubs. You could pick up a set of .5* hubs or the new style inner rear arm mount with adjustable toe in and try 3.5*.
Each square lead weight is a 1/4 oz. I'd be pretty impressed if you were able to cram 3 oz.'s in there
I'd go to -1* camber all around, that will help settle the rear end down a bit. Slipper isn't super tight is it?
I will take your suggestions and look more into the tires. Appreciate the help
02-15-2012 | 11:05 AM
Tech Regular
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 413
From: LA, Cali
A spec tire is great in theory... but only if they control how many are sold too. The people willing to run a new set of spec tires every week will still force the majority to spend $ on tires to keep up.
Its the same thing with a blinky class. They did it to blackball boosted and level the playing field... but now the discussion is "whats the fastest motor and speedo combo" to run with a specific gear. So now people are buying multiple motors and speedos looking for the edge in speed... when all they had to do was run a boosted setup... or mod.
Its brushed stock class racing all over again. Battery motor and speedo wars...
Its the same thing with a blinky class. They did it to blackball boosted and level the playing field... but now the discussion is "whats the fastest motor and speedo combo" to run with a specific gear. So now people are buying multiple motors and speedos looking for the edge in speed... when all they had to do was run a boosted setup... or mod.
Its brushed stock class racing all over again. Battery motor and speedo wars...
02-15-2012 | 11:07 AM
02-15-2012 | 11:10 AM
DaveW
I go to the track to have fun but I would like to get faster. When I change things sometimes I will change a second or even third thing to see what happens with it. Right now everyone is on JConcepts tires while I use Scrubs on the front and alternate between Sweeps and Suburbs on the back. Right now I have 3* of rear toe. When I change to 2.5* this coming Sunday I will see what the car does and then make small changes, battery placement and/or springs, and then go from there. Usually if I make the A I am in the back but having a good time is higher on the list than running the fastest lap of the day. There is a guy at the track that I run the same speed as and we trades smart remarks all day about who is going to beat the other. The last two weeks I qualified higher but he finished higher and I am more tired of that than finishing towards the back.
I go to the track to have fun but I would like to get faster. When I change things sometimes I will change a second or even third thing to see what happens with it. Right now everyone is on JConcepts tires while I use Scrubs on the front and alternate between Sweeps and Suburbs on the back. Right now I have 3* of rear toe. When I change to 2.5* this coming Sunday I will see what the car does and then make small changes, battery placement and/or springs, and then go from there. Usually if I make the A I am in the back but having a good time is higher on the list than running the fastest lap of the day. There is a guy at the track that I run the same speed as and we trades smart remarks all day about who is going to beat the other. The last two weeks I qualified higher but he finished higher and I am more tired of that than finishing towards the back.
Youre definitely in the right frame of mind when it comes to having fun on race day. Just keep doing your thing... cause theres nothing wrong with clean competitive good fun.
(If you wanna secure your victory... tweak all of his radio setting just before the main... HAHA)
02-15-2012 | 11:12 AM
What are your opinions on running mod rotors in 13.5 non roar events and club racing? I recently aquired a Fantom ION2 13.5 and happened to have the spare 12.5 mod rotor from my ION3 8.5. I put it in my B4.1 in place of a Novak SS Pro 13.5. Geared the same 31/75 and the Fantom seems a couple mph faster and def more punch, 115 degrees after 5 min. So I geared up to 31/69 and it is REALLY fast. Tons of punch and it has huge top end. Wheelies if I punch it at anything less than 1/8th throttle on the straight. Came off at 135 after 5 min. No added timing on the motor and esc is a GTB2. Is it fair to run a mod rotor in super stock non ROAR?
02-15-2012 | 11:20 AM
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From: Mesa, AZ
IIRC .030 higher axle location on the 2 hole vs. the 3 hole.
I'm not sure off hand why shimming the 3 hole all the way down wouldn't do the same thing...They may be using the 2 hole because you can get it in carbon??
Wild Cherry would know more, he's posted on it before but don't know what post # it would be.
I'm not sure off hand why shimming the 3 hole all the way down wouldn't do the same thing...They may be using the 2 hole because you can get it in carbon??
Wild Cherry would know more, he's posted on it before but don't know what post # it would be.
02-15-2012 | 11:25 AM
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey