01-31-2012, 02:58 PM <- posted it back that far ago on this same tread lol

http://www.rctech.net/forum/10256436-post368.html

+2

Anyone that has run 1/8th offroad can appreciate the ease of downstop adjustment with droop screws. I hated them on TC's... but i love them in offroad.

Not sure I understand why you would need to constantly adjust droop?

Droop (suspension downtravel) affects cornering, jumping, bump absorption, weight transfer F/R... all kinds of small important adjustments could be easily 'seen' with the screws.

Stuff you likely wont 'see' now, and will rely on someone elses setup to provide a starting point simply because its time consuming, messy, and expensive (shock oil) to adjust.

For example (generalized)... you need more rear grip so you adjust your rear roll center... if you have too many spacers in your rear shocks for downtravel control... what good is the added rear roll gonna do you? If you had droop screws you could take a 1/4 out on the rear arm screws and make use of your added rollcenter without tearing your shocks apart.

If you find out the change sucked... then you just twist the screws to their previous positions... without rebuilding your shocks AGAIN. LOL

It makes track test sessions fast and effective.

Makes sense. Good explanation, thanks!

Went to practice to tonight at the local indoor track and dropped in the 81 tooth spur. Really like the way the truck feels, I think it's the perfect gearing for that track. Odd problem came up, my tranny is now making a clicking sound when I let go of the throttle. On power or brake it makes no noise, but when coasting its clicking. Seems to perform just fine, and I can't detect the noise.

Got me a rolling chassis on my way to the track. Paid $150 from a member on here and the thing is pretty much new. Very light wear marks on the bottom of the chassis. He threw in a new set of front and rear rulux wheels and a set of new wheels with fresh calibers on the rear and carvers up front. Not bad.

What type of track condition do proline calibers work best?

Could you possibly have worn diff outdrives? When you let off the gas, the
CVD might be slapping back against the flat unworn side of the outdrive.

I've tried Calibers on our indoor med/high bite well grooved track and they are competent at best. They do work better when it gets really dusty. They work much better for me on my own outdoor track which is loamy, dusty clay. They are bi-directional too so pay attention to that if you haven't mounted them up yet. There's a big difference between the two directions.

Thanks for the reply. 2 questions:

How do I know if the outdrive is worn? Can you explain the difference in performance of the tires based on how they're mounted?

Obviously a new out drive has flat slots all the way across where the pin rides. The pin will wear on the drive side making a half moon shape. Some wear is normal as it starts from day one. How much wear is acceptable is up to each person. But once it becomes a deep groove and not just a rounded half moon it can bind the axle pin as the suspension moves and snap the end off of the axle. This takes a lot of wear but I've seen it happen...don't ask how

Thank you, I just checked and the outdrive is definitely not worn out. I still have no idea what could be causing the clicking noise.

Bad bearing whose existence is masked by the noise otherwise when accelerating, etc.

In your experience, is it more likely the bearings in the hub, or the ones in the tranny?

Hub for sure. Tranny bearings tend to last forever, as long as they stay clean.

Yes, hub, but you can replace all six tranny bearings and the four hub bearings for $10+shipping through Avid so why not do them all.

anyone interested in some pics / info on doing the front quick change wheel setup?

I may have some time today to look it over and even post some pics of it.

Initial impressions it seems to be all AE parts.