PLEASE HELP: When I turn my car to the right I can get full lock steering knuckle barely touches caster block but when I turn to the left I cant get full lock, it looks like the left bellcrank hits where the left side of the top bulkhead/top plate is screw into, and then the left bellcrank just flexes. New kit 2nd b4.1 ive owned and had the same problem with both.

Well, I'm in for a surprise tomorrow at the races. It's been a few months since I've driven my B4.1 The stock electronics have all disappeared, one way or another. SC 4x4 is a dying breed at a particular track, so I swapped electronics into my roller B4.1. 4x4 with tons of GO into a lighter 2wd...

CC MMP/Tekin Pro4 4000Kv geared at 58/13. I've got a new set of Barcodes mounted, all ready to go.

first thing check the endpoints on the radio and make sure you maxed out the short side. if that does not work check the spacers on the servo mounts and the tie rod lengths. if that still isnt it you need to check the servo horn mount on the servo.

@ the Reedy they were modifying the pads as I posted..

Take the ball cup off of the servo horn. Then turn the car manually and see where it binds or hits. You may have to shave a little plastic off of somewhere.

you think its all driver preference on camber and stuff because i was running at like 4 degrees front and rear and turning out avg 15sec laps in second place stock buggy than i was told thats way to much in so they said go to 1 degree for both and now i feel less consistant running fastest at low 16 when my avg was 15sec

hi guys, I'm looking at buying the 4.1. What is the maximum motor you would recommend for this car? I have an old 4 turn LRP brushless. Will this flog out the diff or can it survive this amount of power? Or am I better looking at something more like a 10.5?

probably because it took away rear traction which gave you steering.. or a similar scenario. I'd go with .5 all around, some do 0 rear and 1 degree front, etc.. then tune your car from there to drive the way you want

Pledge works great too.

Honestly a 4 turn is WAAAAYYYY TOO MUCH MOTOR in pretty much anything! It's all about what you feel you've got the most control over. I ran mine yesterday, started with an 8.5. I ended up running faster and more consistent laps with a boosted 17.5. The car felt like it was velcroed to the track and was much easier to compensate when I missed the line in certain trouble spots on the track. When you get into the lower turn motors there's a lot more "brute force" even when you adjust the radio/esc settings to mellow it out a bit. If I had my 10.5 or 13.5 with me I would have ended up with one of those in there and killed a bunch of the boost. Just my opinion but sometimes you need to slow down in order to speed up.

Totally agree, i found i drive more consistent with 17.5t boosted, and my 13.5t is about the limit for "steady" laps. Unless your just after some laps in a carpark or out in the field thats fine, but on the track it becomes uncontrollable.

Cheers

hey buddy, im sorry for bein a dick to ya a while back.

i run a lrp 7.5 and i think that is the limit don't forget you can never have to much motor just to little in other words you can always tone it down from you radio or your speedo. Also if you are running a high end Esc like a lrp sxx v2 comp spec it will make the car more controllable with a faster motor. Just my opinion

I've seen ppl running 6.5t at the track. But the preferred motors are 7.5t or 8.5t.

nice, hear k springs are dialed and worth it if you can give 40 dollars.

What can i do for when I land on a table top which is right before a turn, I am landing just on the downside but if i turn while landing my rear washes out. The jump was just added so its slick but Im trying a little more oil because my rear can use more pack. 32.5 all around Im going. I can always change oils fast in my car so its all good=]