Wow!

I would call them direct. I had them ship me some aluminum screws which were missing from a kit. You might be waiting for a reply to your email for quite some time....

The exact same thing happened to me with my FT kit! It was kinda funny to me, I mean you just have to chalk it up to mass production, sooner or later something is going to happen like this. Just throw in a spare of the same length.

I just deal with it. IMO if it's not "chattering" through the corners, it's not dialed. Haha.

Sorry if this has been covered already. I did some searching and couldn't find anything.

Last night I replaced a bad bearing and all of the gears in my gearbox and the gearbox is tight (doesn't spin freely) and it gets tighter the more I tighten the screws. This has happened to me before and I can't figure out the rhyme or reason. Does anyone have any experience solving this issue. Thanks in advance.

That's a bummer. I had an issue with my 4.1 kit a few months back. I was missing the whole shock bag F. I emailed them and Chris's Jarroz had me a full set in 2 days. Maybe Chris will see your post and get you a response pretty quick. Their customer service is awesome. But like some say just chalk it up to mass production and shipping.

yeah I called them already and they said they'll take care of it, just need my receipt from the hobby shop, then I called the hobby shop and he says he'll just replace it, so I'm covered either way.

edit: yes chris is the person who i spoke with and both him and don are great to deal with.

Boooooooooooooooooo!!!

The screws don't need to be tightened up all the way. Lossen the screws until the trans rolls freely. Make sure to loctite them. The trans case deforms easy under pressure from the screws. This is what's likely causing the binding.

I recently build the B 4.1 kit, and even tightening the screws as loose as you could possibly want them, the transmission was still dragging noticeably, and I did not trust with the amount of screw engagement with the motor plate they would stay secure.

Looking at it more I noticed that having left side of the transmission case off, that the gear on the top shaft did not line up horizontally with the idler/diff gear. All bearings were seated correctly and everything assembled correctly.

After more investigation, I found the culprit was the silver aluminum sleeve used to space the top-shaft. It was two long. So, I carefully sanded it down with sand-paper, may have removed about 1/32 to 1/64 of and inch. Just went little by little until I not longer got binding for reasonable snugging of the transnmission housing bolts

Also, I did not use the washers for the transmission bolts. You don't tighten them that much anyways, and I felt the depth of thread engagement was no good with them.

After these mods, the transmission runs nice and smooth.

Weird, isn't it? The associated wheels just do that for some reason. The proline front wheels space the bearings out a tiny bit wider, and get rid of most of the slop... but the white proline wheels are kind of off white, which bothers me.

The hex fronts get rid of just about all the slop if you go that route at some point down the road. Its really nice not having to pull bearings all the time too... or if you don't want to do hex, let me know. I have a bunch of fronts that are much less convenient for me to use now if you need any.

I had the same problem. In my case, the motor plate was warped, so I replaced it, and that fixed the problem. However, not being a very good driver, I crash, and the new plate eventually tweaked. So, now I put a drop of blue loctite in the holes, finger tight the bottom 2 mounting bolts, and tighten the top just enough, so the trans doesn't bind.

a good setup for a new buggy? esc and motor...also running stock too.

Way tight transmission screws ?

Suggest adding one 3/16th axle shim in ft of top shaft spacer....( not for spacing , better for bearing to ride on)

Also use the servo kit washers, not the metal .030 washer
transmission screw's...

*Lock Tight


note:
If transmission case is well used & screw's were way tight , it is now mostly warped & needs replacement .

Once the trans case is screwed together... push the top shaft IN to seat the bearing on the left trans case side, and pull the top shaft OUT to seat the bearing on the right trans case side.

Using the top shaft to seat the bearings after trans case assembly will help seat the bearings to the top shaft. Then loosen and snug up all case screws to see if it has helped.

I have NEVER has to adjust a top shaft spacer to make clearance in an AE case... and i have built A LOT of AE trans cases over the years. The only exception to this was the Hydra Drive conversion topshaft for AE cars back in the day... but they used shims... not a spacer.

WOW, throwback of the day!

Great upgrade back then

I know this is the B4.1 thread, but quick question:

Are these wheels actually wider than the standard 2.2 front wheel?

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...eels-Yellow-B4