If the car is reacting too quickly in left/right transition, thicker dampening will generally settle the car down. helps to take that "edgy" feeling out of the car.

I use a silver Sharpie to put one, two, and three dots on the motor wires. Easy, fast, stealth.

Just to add to what he said:

If the car has "double steer", where the front grabs on entry at first but then pushes wide a bit and then grabs again, this can often be helped by going to heavier lube in the tubes.

If the car is "diffing", lifting the inside rear tire in the corner and making it sound like the diff is slipping, this can sometimes be cured by going lighter on the tube lube.

Something else you can try, run a bit to get the feel for the car, then pop off one of the tubes and try again. If the car works better, rebuild them with lighter fluid.

With previous cars, I ALWAYS used 5 or 10k, anything heavier was junk. My current car seems to like a bit more. 10k minimum and right now it's working with 20k.

Has anyone solved how to trim Jaco Rear tires using a huddy trimmer? Due to the tire design the arbor isn't able to thread onto the truer shaft without using a lot of force. It works, but I'm worried that over time the threads on the truer are going to get wrecked. I'm also concerned that with the arbor not fully seated on the tire that I might not be trimming the tires as round as possible.

Does anyone else have this problem?

Are you sure you are using the right arbor? I have the Hudy universal pan car arbor on my truer and have no problem with the Jaco rear rim.

I have a couple different arbors, both Hudy, and pretty old. One fits the Jaco rears and one is short as described. Perhaps the Hudy universal arbor is the solution. I've heard that the CRC arbor works well also.

Jaco wheels are always a PITA to get on any arbor straight. The wheel design is such that there is no flat area for the nut part of the arbor to ride on. I always have to tighten the nut very carefully and check the concentricity before starting to true; it usually takes a few tries to get it straight

Thanks for the help, it looks like I have an older arbor then. I might just make due and then graduate to CRC's once I've gotten the hang of 1/12. I went with Jaco's because I heard they were less prone to cracking on impacts with the wall!!

I was reading somewhere here on the forum about tire prep for 1/12, but can't find it again now.

So you guys are using CA on the outside edge of the front tires? Regular, thin CA? (Not foam safe)

And someone also mentioned something about putting contact glue on the sidewalls of the rear tires. Is that purely a protection thing (against hitting walls), or is the idea to also glue the tire to the wheel a bit? And what kind of glue? Welders? Shoo Goo?

Oh -- one more question -- I was checking out an ESC I may use, but the main wires seem HUGE/heavy. What gauge wire would be recommended to replace it with? (I'll probably never run anything hotter than 13.5 boosted...)

As always, any helpful advice is appreciated!

http://tqracing.com/16%20gauge.htm

I've ceased gluing up the sidewalls on my front tires. All I do is run a very small bead of glue (f&r tires) at the glue joint between the wheel and tire for a little extra insurance against peeling. Use a QUALITY tire CA. I prefer AKA's thin.


Wire wise 16AWG is plenty.

Get the CRC true-all Arbor. It will fit EVERY wheel on the market except maybe the Yokomo.

http://www.teamcrc.com/crc/modules.p...prodID=7719061

Hello 12th scale gurus...

I'm getting back into 12th scale and I vaguely recall seeing that some guys were running KO radios (receiver/servos) off of 7.4V. Could someone confirm whether this is an option? I have a Tekin RS that I'd like to repurpose rather than buy a new ESC that has a built-in booster but the local hobbyshop only has small Lipo packs to use as a receiver pack and I was hoping to be up and running this weekend.

Any advice you could provide would be greatly appreciated!

Cheers,
Mike

Im sure you can buy a lipo to put in the radio, and as the second part, you can do a rc with a novak booster, or buy the Dynamite 1/12 LiFe Receiver Pack, i chose the boost because it was just easier for me, and thats one less thing i have to charge to get going.

It looks as though you are talking about powering the car and only have access to a 2s lipo rx pack. If you look through the Tekin RS thread you will find a diagram where is shows how to splice your lipo battery into the switch leads. This is a path internal to the speed control past the power section and only applies your extra battery to the BEC circuit. By using a 2s lipo you will end up seeing 3s equivalent at the BEC since it and the main battery are inline but it works fine. I had some 240mah single cell lipos that I wired inline and have had great results. A ten minute run uses around 38mah from the rx battery.

OK...now you've confused me ! When I ran 12th scale before with my Tekin I ran a 200mah LiFe pack that plugged directly into the battery plug on the receiver. All I have available to me right now are small 240mah 2s lipos and I was thinking perhaps I could simply plug that into my KO receiver without overloading the receiver and servo with 7.4V?

Cheers,
Mike