RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Are you guys running the rear hub towards the front or back on the rear arm? I was thinking about it, and it seems like it would affect more than just the wheelbase and weight distribution.... similarly to anti squat, but for a different reason, it seems that it would affect downward pressure on the hub with the hub being farther forward or behind the outdrive.
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
Are you guys running the rear hub towards the front or back on the rear arm? I was thinking about it, and it seems like it would affect more than just the wheelbase and weight distribution.... similarly to anti squat, but for a different reason, it seems that it would affect downward pressure on the hub with the hub being farther forward or behind the outdrive.

I really dig it though. I stopped running florescent colors in 1996, and that's a sure fire way to be unique on the track.
A blue shim like the ft ballstud shims?
Also thought I'd mention I went to the hex conversion over the weekend, and it worked out nicely. Used ae front axle, steering block (no longer uses shims above/below on kingpin) and proline blue hexes. Picked up the ae plastic hexes as a backup, and to use the shims and new roll pins.
Jc mono fronts and rears for associated fit great, and the jc mono for the 22 fits equally well in back (tried a buddies wheel on one side, and appeared to be the same fitment, offset, etc) the losi brand wheel doesn't fit my 11/32 driver, but the jc mono for 22 has plenty of room.
I didn't actually run the 22 mono, so take it for what its worth, but as far as I could tell, those could be used interchangeably for those who like the inset nut. (rear only)
Also thought I'd mention I went to the hex conversion over the weekend, and it worked out nicely. Used ae front axle, steering block (no longer uses shims above/below on kingpin) and proline blue hexes. Picked up the ae plastic hexes as a backup, and to use the shims and new roll pins.
Jc mono fronts and rears for associated fit great, and the jc mono for the 22 fits equally well in back (tried a buddies wheel on one side, and appeared to be the same fitment, offset, etc) the losi brand wheel doesn't fit my 11/32 driver, but the jc mono for 22 has plenty of room.
I didn't actually run the 22 mono, so take it for what its worth, but as far as I could tell, those could be used interchangeably for those who like the inset nut. (rear only)
Sorry for all the questions guys I have been out of 1/10th for quite a while selling off my 1/8th stuff to get back into it.
Is there any other difference in the ftb4.1 and the ftb4.1 worlds other then 8mm extended chassis?
Is there any other difference in the ftb4.1 and the ftb4.1 worlds other then 8mm extended chassis?
new Worlds includes the 8m chassis, battery strap & Bull Dog body
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You only want to lower the u brace if you run the "c" hub towers. Personally, I don't think its good unless the track is relatively smooth, my home tracks are fairly bumpy and these make the car harder to drive. They give the car more steering without really sacrificing anything except maybe a little stability. Usually these are very good on wet indoor tracks.
Bob- Btw, 1 month in and I'm already back on pace.
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Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey




