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Old 01-30-2012 | 10:21 AM
  #10621  
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Are you guys running the rear hub towards the front or back on the rear arm? I was thinking about it, and it seems like it would affect more than just the wheelbase and weight distribution.... similarly to anti squat, but for a different reason, it seems that it would affect downward pressure on the hub with the hub being farther forward or behind the outdrive.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 10:22 AM
  #10622  
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Originally Posted by SkarTisu
I bet that body looks SICK in a color pic!

Kidding...I really like that design!
hahaha whats up Marshall! Thats the thing though man.....everyone seems to run the same colors, lmao.......this is different and Chad B is hooking m up with all plain cf wraps for all my pit stuff...stealth mode
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Old 01-30-2012 | 10:29 AM
  #10623  
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Originally Posted by Timmahhh
Are you guys running the rear hub towards the front or back on the rear arm? I was thinking about it, and it seems like it would affect more than just the wheelbase and weight distribution.... similarly to anti squat, but for a different reason, it seems that it would affect downward pressure on the hub with the hub being farther forward or behind the outdrive.
"centered" with blue shim on back side.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 10:33 AM
  #10624  
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Originally Posted by Trevor Williams
hahaha whats up Marshall! Thats the thing though man.....everyone seems to run the same colors, lmao.......this is different and Chad B is hooking m up with all plain cf wraps for all my pit stuff...stealth mode
Yer sneaky!

I really dig it though. I stopped running florescent colors in 1996, and that's a sure fire way to be unique on the track.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 10:39 AM
  #10625  
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Are there any status/rumors about the new associated shocks/springs for the B4, T4, sc10, etc?
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Old 01-30-2012 | 10:40 AM
  #10626  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
"centered" with blue shim on back side.
A blue shim like the ft ballstud shims?

Also thought I'd mention I went to the hex conversion over the weekend, and it worked out nicely. Used ae front axle, steering block (no longer uses shims above/below on kingpin) and proline blue hexes. Picked up the ae plastic hexes as a backup, and to use the shims and new roll pins.

Jc mono fronts and rears for associated fit great, and the jc mono for the 22 fits equally well in back (tried a buddies wheel on one side, and appeared to be the same fitment, offset, etc) the losi brand wheel doesn't fit my 11/32 driver, but the jc mono for 22 has plenty of room.

I didn't actually run the 22 mono, so take it for what its worth, but as far as I could tell, those could be used interchangeably for those who like the inset nut. (rear only)
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Old 01-30-2012 | 10:44 AM
  #10627  
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Sorry for all the questions guys I have been out of 1/10th for quite a while selling off my 1/8th stuff to get back into it.

Is there any other difference in the ftb4.1 and the ftb4.1 worlds other then 8mm extended chassis?
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Old 01-30-2012 | 10:49 AM
  #10628  
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Originally Posted by Littlejohn Dsgn
Sorry for all the questions guys I have been out of 1/10th for quite a while selling off my 1/8th stuff to get back into it.

Is there any other difference in the ftb4.1 and the ftb4.1 worlds other then 8mm extended chassis?
new Worlds includes the 8m chassis, battery strap & Bull Dog body
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Old 01-30-2012 | 10:50 AM
  #10629  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
new Worlds includes the 8m chassis, battery strap & Bull Dog body
0 degree hubs
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Old 01-30-2012 | 10:51 AM
  #10630  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
new Worlds includes the 8m chassis, battery strap & Bull Dog body
0 degree camber blocks as well I think.
mxracer458: you beat me to it!

Last edited by lip; 01-30-2012 at 11:02 AM.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 10:54 AM
  #10631  
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Originally Posted by DanGriffin
You only want to lower the u brace if you run the "c" hub towers. Personally, I don't think its good unless the track is relatively smooth, my home tracks are fairly bumpy and these make the car harder to drive. They give the car more steering without really sacrificing anything except maybe a little stability. Usually these are very good on wet indoor tracks.
Yea, I've heard that and I would definitely begin running the CF hubs if I were to shave the U-brace. I run on a fairly bumpy indoor track so I don't think this is for me, but I may try it. Currently I'm just running the standard plastic B44 hubs (0*) and it's working great. Thanks for the help.

Bob- Btw, 1 month in and I'm already back on pace.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 11:09 AM
  #10632  
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the worlds kit will also come with a rear ballast weight.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 11:09 AM
  #10633  
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
3.0 will make your car want to "straighten out" when you hit the throttle so it can cause more of an on power push. I switched to 2.5 with 0 out board. Try it. Also make sure you have 2 deg anti squat.
Good stuff, thanks Bob!
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Old 01-30-2012 | 11:10 AM
  #10634  
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Originally Posted by Tyler Keel
Bob- Btw, 1 month in and I'm already back on pace.
LOL rat bastard. I'm still trying to forget every onroad habit I had and remember that I'm driving a 2wd buggy LOL.
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Old 01-30-2012 | 11:26 AM
  #10635  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
new Worlds includes the 8m chassis, battery strap & Bull Dog body
How much does the 8mm chassis really help? I used to run the b4 not 4.1 and it worked great so I am just wondering if its a must have or something I could try down the road.
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