SC10 Thread
#9406
That failure one was a long time coming. You likely hit the wall with the RR under power, caused a small crack, and over time it got worse before it failed.
I think your long term solution is to figure out how many race days you can run before one fails, multiply that by .7 to get a safety factor, and change them out that many race days. Either that or get a really big nerf on the RR to keep it away from the wall.
Indy cars that run on street circuts scribe lines in their driveshafts between the trans and the wheel. They always start the weekend on a new set, and monitor how much they've twisted them up after every run. I think they change them out when the axle gets 90 degrees of twist, or they get to the end of the weekend, or if the car gets hit - whichever comes first.
I think your long term solution is to figure out how many race days you can run before one fails, multiply that by .7 to get a safety factor, and change them out that many race days. Either that or get a really big nerf on the RR to keep it away from the wall.
Indy cars that run on street circuts scribe lines in their driveshafts between the trans and the wheel. They always start the weekend on a new set, and monitor how much they've twisted them up after every run. I think they change them out when the axle gets 90 degrees of twist, or they get to the end of the weekend, or if the car gets hit - whichever comes first.
#9407
it's a normal wear item. haven't broken one on my sc10 yet but i did break one on my b4. just get some of those cvd rebuild kits, or like some have suggested, used body clips/nails and cut to size.
i highly recommend using FT Solid Axle Pins on your axles along with jconcepts rear hexes to pretty much bulletproof that area. the rollpins tend to break from wear.
i highly recommend using FT Solid Axle Pins on your axles along with jconcepts rear hexes to pretty much bulletproof that area. the rollpins tend to break from wear.
#9408
it's a normal wear item. haven't broken one on my sc10 yet but i did break one on my b4. just get some of those cvd rebuild kits, or like some have suggested, used body clips/nails and cut to size.
i highly recommend using FT Solid Axle Pins on your axles along with jconcepts rear hexes to pretty much bulletproof that area. the rollpins tend to break from wear.
i highly recommend using FT Solid Axle Pins on your axles along with jconcepts rear hexes to pretty much bulletproof that area. the rollpins tend to break from wear.
#9409
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...am-Axle-Pins-4
I use them for the rears on my B4/44/SC10
The 44 front is the only thing that still has rollpins, since it's not captured like the rear hexes. Not sure what to do about that one yet. I guess wait until an aftermarket hex comes out for it?
I use them for the rears on my B4/44/SC10
The 44 front is the only thing that still has rollpins, since it's not captured like the rear hexes. Not sure what to do about that one yet. I guess wait until an aftermarket hex comes out for it?
#9417
Looking for a little help.
Took my used RS to the track. I set it up per the stock set up sheet.
I'm running castle sct/3800. The track is small/meduim size hard packed dirt.
Truck is a handful to say the least, leans around over the place, and constantly wants to lose the back end. It's pretty frustrating.
Is there anything that the stock RS set-up has that needs changing?
Took my used RS to the track. I set it up per the stock set up sheet.
I'm running castle sct/3800. The track is small/meduim size hard packed dirt.
Truck is a handful to say the least, leans around over the place, and constantly wants to lose the back end. It's pretty frustrating.
Is there anything that the stock RS set-up has that needs changing?
#9418
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 37
Did you rebuild the dampers while you were setting it up?
#9420
for those interested I mounted the GPM steering setup other than the steering rack link. everythig bolted up fine, no issues.
Will race tomorrow so will report back what I think.
Will be using an airtronics 94358 servo in the SC10 and a JR 9100S servo in the T4.
Will race tomorrow so will report back what I think.
Will be using an airtronics 94358 servo in the SC10 and a JR 9100S servo in the T4.




