RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 306
This was talked about pretty well a few pages back
Current SC10 diff #'s
Gear - 9827 (RS manual)
Ball - 9853 (RS upgrade parts list)
Current B4.1 Diff #'s
Gear 9827 (FT upgrade parts list)
Ball 7678 (FT manual)
As long as you have the newest updated tranny case. any up there will work.
I know for a fact #9827 will fit in to a B4.1 FT tranny case without doing anything to it. I run that in my B4.1 FT
I know the 7678 will fit in a RS case. I did it for a little while.
Current SC10 diff #'s
Gear - 9827 (RS manual)
Ball - 9853 (RS upgrade parts list)
Current B4.1 Diff #'s
Gear 9827 (FT upgrade parts list)
Ball 7678 (FT manual)
As long as you have the newest updated tranny case. any up there will work.
I know for a fact #9827 will fit in to a B4.1 FT tranny case without doing anything to it. I run that in my B4.1 FT
I know the 7678 will fit in a RS case. I did it for a little while.
Thanks. I did search but this thread is a monster...
What is the difference between the 9853 and 7678?
Just to add a bit more to the BB fitment.
I have just tested my Yokomo BB shocks from the BMAX4 Factory 2011 kit and they fit perfect, bar a small adjustment. Please excuse the dirt, as our track was wet, and i havent cleaned up the car. Im all for presentation when i come to the track, for the first race at least.
Taking into consideration im using the anodized front shock tower, the front shocks will need a spacer or nut to space them back from the tower so you get full travel and use of the inner hole. They do not bind in any way, and have the travel and droop that I want my B4 to have, Full lock left and right also no binding on springs.



The rear shocks will need a small piece taken out of the top of the shock mount (with dremel) wont need more than 2mm just so you can use inner top hole. Other than that, no binding in any other holes, the turnbuckles touch the springs by the slightest (i do mean slightest, can slide a piece of paper between) but dont have any restriction on the shock. They are the same length as AE V2 or the RTR Blue. Has a nicer feel, and damping properties, although I am only using 30 and 20 wt oil at this time.





Sorry to the other guy who may go NUTSO...
I have just tested my Yokomo BB shocks from the BMAX4 Factory 2011 kit and they fit perfect, bar a small adjustment. Please excuse the dirt, as our track was wet, and i havent cleaned up the car. Im all for presentation when i come to the track, for the first race at least.

Taking into consideration im using the anodized front shock tower, the front shocks will need a spacer or nut to space them back from the tower so you get full travel and use of the inner hole. They do not bind in any way, and have the travel and droop that I want my B4 to have, Full lock left and right also no binding on springs.



The rear shocks will need a small piece taken out of the top of the shock mount (with dremel) wont need more than 2mm just so you can use inner top hole. Other than that, no binding in any other holes, the turnbuckles touch the springs by the slightest (i do mean slightest, can slide a piece of paper between) but dont have any restriction on the shock. They are the same length as AE V2 or the RTR Blue. Has a nicer feel, and damping properties, although I am only using 30 and 20 wt oil at this time.





Sorry to the other guy who may go NUTSO...
Just to add a bit more to the BB fitment.
I have just tested my Yokomo BB shocks from the BMAX4 Factory 2011 kit and they fit perfect, bar a small adjustment. Please excuse the dirt, as our track was wet, and i havent cleaned up the car. Im all for presentation when i come to the track, for the first race at least.
Taking into consideration im using the anodized front shock tower, the front shocks will need a spacer or nut to space them back from the tower so you get full travel and use of the inner hole. They do not bind in any way, and have the travel and droop that I want my B4 to have, Full lock left and right also no binding on springs.
I have just tested my Yokomo BB shocks from the BMAX4 Factory 2011 kit and they fit perfect, bar a small adjustment. Please excuse the dirt, as our track was wet, and i havent cleaned up the car. Im all for presentation when i come to the track, for the first race at least.

Taking into consideration im using the anodized front shock tower, the front shocks will need a spacer or nut to space them back from the tower so you get full travel and use of the inner hole. They do not bind in any way, and have the travel and droop that I want my B4 to have, Full lock left and right also no binding on springs.
How much heavier is the car with all the aluminum parts? Also what breaks now if you crash? I feel like if you crash since alot of that is stronger now, it'll put the impact on something else?
Tech Regular
iTrader: (1)
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 306
Hi,
Thanks.
Now I'm confused...why does it show the 7678 in the 4.1 parts/accessories page? :
http://teamassociated.com/cars_and_t...s_accessories/
hey just curious as to which shock cups and collars those are, and what springs as well? I read a few pages back to see if you had posted saying already but didn't see
Now just in general, I do understand why true BBs work, however if I am understanding, people are using the big bore shocks on the normal AE shock bodies too, and they are doing this because they are less likely to rub, meaning the perfomance of the spring/shock would be more consistant?
Now if all that said is true, do you guys TRULY notice a difference, do you seem your lap-times drop, or is it one of those things you think they make a difference but aren't positive.
I am interested in getting true BBs, but quite frankly I can't afford to spend $140 on shocks and additional $20 per pair of springs. And if just using the springs themselves make a difference then for now I'll do that till AE releases some(if they ever do).
hey just curious as to which shock cups and collars those are, and what springs as well? I read a few pages back to see if you had posted saying already but didn't see
Now just in general, I do understand why true BBs work, however if I am understanding, people are using the big bore shocks on the normal AE shock bodies too, and they are doing this because they are less likely to rub, meaning the perfomance of the spring/shock would be more consistant?
Now if all that said is true, do you guys TRULY notice a difference, do you seem your lap-times drop, or is it one of those things you think they make a difference but aren't positive.
I am interested in getting true BBs, but quite frankly I can't afford to spend $140 on shocks and additional $20 per pair of springs. And if just using the springs themselves make a difference then for now I'll do that till AE releases some(if they ever do).
Now just in general, I do understand why true BBs work, however if I am understanding, people are using the big bore shocks on the normal AE shock bodies too, and they are doing this because they are less likely to rub, meaning the perfomance of the spring/shock would be more consistant?
Now if all that said is true, do you guys TRULY notice a difference, do you seem your lap-times drop, or is it one of those things you think they make a difference but aren't positive.
I am interested in getting true BBs, but quite frankly I can't afford to spend $140 on shocks and additional $20 per pair of springs. And if just using the springs themselves make a difference then for now I'll do that till AE releases some(if they ever do).
The ones I have are Traxxas upper collars and Losi lower cups.
The BB springs give you a very good tuning on spring rate.
Yes they have dropped my lap times. some places I can stay on the throttle longer and others sooner. The buggy seems to like them over the AE ones.
Buy the Losi BB springs they are 6 bucks a pair
The ones I have are Traxxas upper collars and Losi lower cups.
The BB springs give you a very good tuning on spring rate.
Yes they have dropped my lap times. some places I can stay on the throttle longer and others sooner. The buggy seems to like them over the AE ones.
The ones I have are Traxxas upper collars and Losi lower cups.
The BB springs give you a very good tuning on spring rate.
Yes they have dropped my lap times. some places I can stay on the throttle longer and others sooner. The buggy seems to like them over the AE ones.
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Cup-Set-TLR-22
As far as the traxxas parts could you link those to me? I am on amain but dont know what exactly what Im looking for.
As far as losi springs, should I look for a big bore similar to the AE spring rates that I currently use? I run browns(2.8lb) up front and greens(1.9lb) in the rear
Closest I saw for Losi BB springs are Orange(2.9lb) and White(1.8lb)
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (23)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 816
With the BB springs there is more choice in rates too.. Try going from a brown front to a black in the AE's.. Its huge.. & god who uses red rears?
AE make some real springs please..
Make them a .10 pound difference between them not .4
AE make some real springs please..
Make them a .10 pound difference between them not .4





