I finished my build tonight. Really nice kit and good quality parts all around. I highly recommend an electric screwdriver for the build.

The new diff shim sheet didn't work for me at all. I wasted a lot of time trying to follow it. As another poster pointed out DON'T FILL THE DIFFS until after everything is shimmed.

Plenty of shims are included in the kit so you should not need extra.

The 811Be body is much much narrower than the nitro body. I don't forsee a 'cab forward' body for this car, as the cab is only about 2" wide and you won't see any gain in steering from a 'cab forward' version. If you can't get enough steering in this car, your setup is jacked or you have the wrong tires.

I haven'tseen any of them on the diff bags. Where are the extra diff shims?

I've already got the 2mm from amain but didn't have the 1mm

all the shims were in a bag with each diff.

also while were on the shimming...my friend just did his and he's saying that 1 of the 3 silver screws that holds the bearing in place is rubbing when he tighten the diff down. he said it's rubbing the crown gear. he removed 1 of the silver screws and the diff spins free. anybody else have this???

Yep had exactly the same issue with those screws. The screws have to be tight, you can't back them out at all.

a few paged back i mentioned this.

Which holes on the steering rack do you use to install the option 2 steering bar?

Should be the middle two holes.

Finally got to run my car for the first timeon a tight indoor track. I usually run on a bigger track so I didn't focus too much on a tighter track setup but it seemed to work really well. Minus it pushing in turns some and I also needed a little more steering, it drove awesome. I ran 35f 30r shock fluid. Blue springs in front and yellow rears. 8 hole shock pistons and webbed shock bladders. Other than that I am factory.
The next thing I am doing is going with a thinner sway bar in rear.
One thing I would def recommend, and I think a few people have already said this, is get new shock caps. They are very weak. The rears don't really hit but I got home last night from the race and the first thing I did was order a set for the fronts.

A couple of changes I made on my car for tight indoor racing were:
Change the front diff oil from 5K to 4K
Lower the front inner hinge pins from 0-0 to 1 down-1 down
12 deg. caster blocks
2.3 front swaybar
Opt. 2 akerman bar
1 deg antisquat in the rear, change the insert from 4 down to 6

Is there room for a xerun 150a?
Dimension: 58mm(L) x 46.5mm(W) x 35mm(H)

It will be a close fit, the tray is 47.3mm x 58mm.

the 150 is slightly oversized to fit in the given space

I have one here and it extends 4mm beyond the chassis with the sensor cable cover. with out the cable but only taped you extend 2mm. and having the sensor cable on the side you know how it will fit. you may need to make a cut out to route the cable throught esc box but use caution as its real close to the shaft.

does any one else drive a s811 be who lives in Massachusetts? looking for a good setup for RC Excitement in Fitchburge Mass. hard packed indoor clay rather tight med jumps. thanks .. oh hey Porkchop have u raced out here at toods track {rc Excitement}? think i bout a serpent from ya

Looks good. I haven't been here in a week or so been out crashing my heli
But looks good to me. I like the clean look the bullit connectors give you on the battery install. My hard wired thunder power batteries suffer in this car.