[QUOTE=Chad Smith;10126774]Not sure, they are a friends scales. I can try to find out for you.

Nah, I never bought the aluminum pulleys. I just replaced the plastic ones. It worth looking at the clearance though.


So the center diff works pretty well with the pro 4? I'm interested in picking one up I'm just concerned it would slip and I'd end up squaring off the ball bearings. Other than that it seems like a great idea.

Thank you so much for this help ..cant wait to test the truck next week..

Six months ago, I'd agree with you, but the chassis has been developed now where it's competitive and durable for all users. This is bound to happen when the truck is all new, because no matter how much testing AE does, the factory can't debug a chassis as well as the market can. It took six months, but I have my truck working pretty good - thanks to the users on this forum.

With the exception of the saddle packs, the Mac The Knife slipper basket, the sway bars, the yellow springs, and the chassis brace, and some stick on weight, my truck is out of the box stock. If you want to use a 540 motor, you will need a fan for the motor. To me, that's not that much to add.

I have one of those too, and it's just a dream to drive. It has weak parts too, namely the rear camber link plastic, the rear hub carrier bearings (too small), and the front chassis is prone to breakage without a brace.

Everything is a trade off.

Why on earth would that happen??? Everything i design and sell is thouroghly tested by me , other pros as well as bashers. Your not going to square off carbide balls. Even if it slips it will do nothing. Worst case scenario you could groove the rings but they are replaceable. i have had the same rings and balls on my truck for months now and everyone knows i drive/race/test ALOT!!

My basic setup:
Front: yellow springs & sway 32wt shocks, 30k diff
Rear: blue springs & sway, 30wt shocks, 5k diff
Proline caliber sc 2.0 super soft tires on protrack wheels
Pin mod with garo's and basket

15/62 gearing on the pro 4 gives me enough low end power to make every jump from a stand still at the base.

I use the same basic setup outdoors as well with PL snipers

after the pin mod I have a little to much push and need to lower the front diff fluid (center diff is on the way, going down to 20k after that)

Once the calbers wear down a bit they provide just the right amout of traction for me to get pleny of forward bite, but sill slide around enough in turns to prevent traction rolls.

sorry guys but theres two clucth baskets. what one do i need and from where and i dont use pay pal ?

I'm using the spectum rx cap, it's 4700 microfarad and 10v. Worked fine up until about a week ago when my mmp stopped letting the motor turn when running at 6.0v. got the bec on the way.

its going to push like a snowplow with the center dif and 20k!! i have 10k now and am going down to 7 on my next build.

If you send me a money order i will sell you a set of dual garodisc. Without paypal your going to have a hard time buying anywhere nowadays.

Since your a fellow Georgian I won't give you the "Go use the search response " I'll probably be at hotshots RC either Friday or Monday night if you want to see it in action.

I think garodiscs are the cheapest and easiest way to fix the slipper, then the pin mod if you want true 4x4 handling (which will cost you the price of a good drill bit if you otherwise have the tools)

Good tires are always a must, and besides that I think you could hold your own given you have the skills from the races I've been to around GA.

If you trying to decide on 4wd vs. 2wd, you will have 2-3 times the number of competitors to race with on 2wd, but to me 4wd is more fun. I think that will change as this truck and other 4x4's get to be more popular.

Thanks, I have 5k, 10k, 20k, and 30k bottles, do you know if you can mix 5k & 10k equal out to 7k? I'm not the best driver so I may go with 10k first to help me hold it in the sweepers at the 1/8 scale track.

Yea and being a software developer, I can tell you that your much safer using paypal for any small outfit as they may not be handling your data as well as they should be (not aimed at you Manits, just general practice)

While I have been dialing my truck in since it came out, here are what I consider absolutely necessary to have a truck that can win against a decent field:
Slipper fix (pin it on slick tracks, add garodisks, get a clutch basket, or get the new center diff)
Swaybars
Adding weight to balance the car

Those three things will cost you less than $100

Here's what most people are finding to be very beneficial and you can add as you see fit/budget allows, but will probably be necessary to win at an upper level:
Chassis brace (Coyote carbon tube, exotec center chassis, etc. Just to keep belt tension more consistent)
Adding weight on rough tracks (not just to balance)
Saddle packs
RPM A-arms
Modded steering rack (like the rcshox.com ackbar)

As a final word, some might consider a chassis brace mandatory but from a durability standpoint, not a handling one.

iam on a fix in come and i have a bill payee. i dont have free wheel of my money .