SC10 4x4 Thread
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
The stock slipper uses one pad for the front and one pad for the rear. There just isn't enough friction for the rear when on power, so it ends up slipping and overheating with high torque motors like the pro4. The clutch basket adds another pad to the rear for more surface area/friction while the Garodisks have a higher coefficient of friction and don't require maintenance (the stock pads require re-scuffing as the face of the pads polish themselves against the aluminum plates over time). To have enough friction to properly get the power to the ground you only need one or the other, but you can also use them together.
The stock slipper uses one pad for the front and one pad for the rear. There just isn't enough friction for the rear when on power, so it ends up slipping and overheating with high torque motors like the pro4. The clutch basket adds another pad to the rear for more surface area/friction while the Garodisks have a higher coefficient of friction and don't require maintenance (the stock pads require re-scuffing as the face of the pads polish themselves against the aluminum plates over time). To have enough friction to properly get the power to the ground you only need one or the other, but you can also use them together.
I think I'll start out with the garodisc and go from there. Which pinions will work on the pro4? On Amian they have 5mm 32p AE brand
From your earlier post, I assume you mean for the 4000kv Pro4. For a small track (15-20 second lap times), 11 or 12t seems to be plenty. For a big track (30second+ lap times), you can probably go as high as a 14t. It's hard to say for sure without seeing the track. The one Mantis shows in most of his vids, to me, is a small track and he probably has a 12t on there. The track that is shown in "RCshoxmontage.wmv" on his youtube channel is a bigger track and I bet he's got a 14t in there.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 5,719
From: At dirt tracks in Michigan!
I think I may have found a way to fix wobbly diffs. You cut down where the 10x16x4 bearing rides to about 1.25mm tall, then you can place a 5x10x3 bearing(AE91156) inside the other bearing for the outdrives to ride in.
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For those wondering about the Garodisc, they do not wear out and they do not glaze. Set them and forget about them!
Feedback on the center difs will be over the weekend , some will get them to day and some will get them thursday/friday, second runs are scheduled to ship out fri/mon and they will be in stock for good next week!
The pro4 is just a wicked motor! I run 15/60 with 10* of boost and after a ten min main it comes off at 170*. i will say that it works much better with taller gears, it wasnt that impressive with a 13 but woke up with the 14/15! i havent come across a 4600 in a Losi or AE that is faster!!
From your earlier post, I assume you mean for the 4000kv Pro4. For a small track (15-20 second lap times), 11 or 12t seems to be plenty. For a big track (30second+ lap times), you can probably go as high as a 14t. It's hard to say for sure without seeing the track. The one Mantis shows in most of his vids, to me, is a small track and he probably has a 12t on there. The track that is shown in "RCshoxmontage.wmv" on his youtube channel is a bigger track and I bet he's got a 14t in there.

http://www.youtube.com/user/Mantisworx?feature=mhee
Most people are running the 4000 kv Pro4 over the 4600. Unless you are always at a giant track, the 4000 has enough power for the lighter SC10 4x4. Nothing wrong with the 4600, but you will be overpowered at the indoor tracks.
With the 4 pole motors I consider a clutch basket or Garodisks, full sway bar set, and something to stiffen the chassis (tube, CF brace, AL center chassis, etc).
With the 4 pole motors I consider a clutch basket or Garodisks, full sway bar set, and something to stiffen the chassis (tube, CF brace, AL center chassis, etc).



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10min 170*