thats weird they shouldnt. one way to fix it is to put a few limiters in the shocks so that the arms cant drop down as far

it would be best to take some pictures and show us so we can see what the problem is...
so some sitting on the table, some with the arm down and the cvd ready to come out.

You can also try all the small shims on the CVA on the inside, it will move the bone further up into the diff outdrive.


MiCk B. :-)

I had this happen but don't remember which car it was. It was either a b44 or a RC8. It would only happen on one side but not the other. After taking both sides apart, I noticed there was two sets of pin holes where the bone meets the CVD. The side that kept popping out was on the inner side, making the overall length shorter. The other side was on the outside hole making the CVD longer. I removed the pin on the one that kept popping out an put it in the other pin hole to make it longer. Never had a problem again.

I tried looking it up in the manual, but the manual doesn't talk about two sets of holes. This may or may not be the problem, but I thought it is worth a shot. If there are two sets of holes then it is definitely the problem.

Good luck.

I am having problems with the screws for my battery straps what did everyone else do about his the stupid thumb nuts never seem to want to get tight enough to hold the batterys down

I would start with a 21 pinion with a Novak 8.5. Maybe you have a different pinion in a 21?? I usually use Losi pinions which seem to hold up better.

I have noticed alot of people at my local track not liking the v2 shocks I am not sure of this is already on this tread but on the stock b44 shocks if u take the big spacer in-between the two o rings and sand it down .004 of an inch it makes them a hell of alot smoother

V2 shock guys/gals....What some of us have doing is using the white spacers that come with the old rebuild kit(#6440). They are thinner and give the orings MORE room to "swell" so they work/feel smoother.

I use V2 on the 2wd B4.1 and didn't pay attention of they are smooth or not. There is no stiction so I figured they were good.

Same for my old B44 as well with the original shocks. Nice tip though. I'll keep that in mind. I refreshed the 4wd shocks last night and they seemed pretty good for a 4yr old car. LoL.

Yea in mine it always felt like their was air in it but I sanded the spacer down it made it feel really smooth

I used 2 of the thin spacers in between the orings instead of the bigger white one in the old shocks...actually, i still do. They feel smoother for a longer time for sure.

It should fit. I started at 18 when I built mine and it meshed with the spur without an issue. Is it not reaching along the axis of the motor shaft (looks like it would mesh but the teeth don't line up) or is it not reaching perpendicular to the motor shaft (teeth line up but can't get the motor close enough for the teeth to mesh)?

I have toy'ed with shock building methods forever. You name it I have tried it. I found that the more they swell the worse the shock felt. I run mine about 4-6 weeks and then put in new seals. The more they swell the more resistance I felt. They just felt flat or slow like there was a suction or some thing. The seal is better but if you build the stock building method they only leak a bit at first. I top them off every race day after practice no matter what and bleed them, and man can you feel a difference just from practice to racing the suspension really reacts.

This rebuild I am going to try the white shim and see what happens. I will calibrate it. I have heard they are the same length? I will get back on this. Its new seal week for me. Matter of fact its diff week to. 4-6 on that to.

BTW I was swapping set ups on shocks last night at practice. The fella I was talking with uses the V2 cap with the old shock body. He leaves the top thin shim out when he does his shocks. He said it was smoother. I never had any luck with that unless I pre-soaked the rings. It leaks to much at first if I didn't.

If u sand the spacer four thousandths of an inch it is just enough they don't leak just try it

I have tried that to. I heard the pros shave some off, but they do keep there shocks fresh. I think I was around 3.2mm. I cant remember. I am wanting to find something more consistent and accurate 1000th's are tough for me to measure, I had trouble getting them mic'd the same. What grit do you use. I was using 800 grit. So far the best over all performance and consistency has been the stock building set up for me.

Edit I found my shims (Middle) 3.2 mm. Sound like to much?