26,880 at Banzai Hobby

And then factor in the weird arse battery and motors you're gonna have to buy to make the thing run in the first place.

Value for money is not your friend with this car....

I would not be in a huge hurry to go and buy one. Luckily for rc-mini, someone else in the group already did..

i normally jump at new tamiya's, not the m-four. i won't run a car that can't accept 1/10 electronics.

abc genetic fills my 4wd needs.

My only hope for the M Four is that it gets it's own thread and leaves us here in peace. Here's a thought: It can take over the useless M-06 thread!

Tamiya's really opened a can of worms for anyone who loves traditional M chassis racing.

Speaking of traditional M chassis racing, does a person just go with an m05 or maybe seek out a m03? I noticed that the older m03 is hard to find (which makes sense), but I do see some kits on ebay. Otherwise, the only m03's I see are RTR kits with a budget type radio.

I had thought that a m05 pro would be the way to go?

When I used to race 1/12 many years ago, I didn't necessarily care if I had the latest technology, just a car that was predictable. My driving for an entire 8 minutes was the real reason why I normally didn't win mains.

I thought the mini class would be a good way to race without getting too carried away, but I know that once you start racing, it can be a slippery slope.

Thanks for any advice in advance in case I let the r/c bug bite me again.

Is my asking price reasonable for this considering what I have paid for all of it? Considering that it is all lightly used and pretty brand new?

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-w-extras.html

Thanks for all of your guyses input.

There is one already. It's up to about Post # 5. I think it's hit it's peak already. Ok, moving along....

Graphite powered works to dry the gears so dirt will not stick to the silicone.

Number 3 is HUGE!

Here Tamiya M05 of Jilles Groskamp - setup sheet/pictures

http://www.petitrc.com/reglages/tami...C20100228.html

M-03 chassis parts are still pretty easy to get. The main thing is the main chassis parts, pretty much everything else is interchangable or buildable. My LHS has M-03 main chassis parts in black, silver and blue right now. I've got 2 sets as spares and they cost about $12-13 each.

If you can get a set of stock upper links for the M-03, they're bullet and idiot proof. They can be built out of turnbuckle hardware, or you can get the 3 Racing upper link kit: Its titanium and cheap. It's very easy to build the two connectors for the steering linkage out of spares as well. The lower suspension arms, gears, dampers, axles and body posts all interchange between the 03 and the 05.

The only advantage of the 05 is a tiny bit more tunability. The 03 has proven to be a true warhorse, though. Most locals here seem to be reverting to the 03.

Jim,

I agree that the MO3 parts are easy to obtain. I suppose over time they will slowly get harder to find as some have moved onto the MO5 and Tamiya will concentrate on providing spares for the MO5.

WRT to choosing between a MO3 or MO5 it comes back to what is being used at the local track. I was reasonably quick with a MO3, but personally for me I am faster with a MO5. I think both cars can be made to work very well. I believe that the MO5 is a little easier to drive for a newbie than the MO3. Having said that though, I have seen both chassis types be real PITA's to get right.

I think more are running the MO5 now than before, as most have sorted the initial teething set up problems and passing on tips to others who are changing over.

Mr RCTech,

Unfortunately some of your tips will make your car fail tech were some of us race. I still look forward to reading your hints and tricks.

Bob,

The new CVD's sound promising. I hope to hear more from you regarding durability.

Perhaps I should consider off loading my MO3 kits and spares. i have a few that are now sitting around in boxes unused.

Regards,

Calvin.

I dont get dirt inside my gearbox!

With proper tamiya option steering there is not need for a band, as for me it doesn't create wheel wobble

Jilles setup is only good for a event or club that doesnt have any rules in place as his car is changed so much from stock

Brad,

Jilles setup was for TITC 2010 with the old version 60D tyres. I am sure for those going to 2012 TITC it would provide a starting point, however the tyres and rims are different with 2mm off set.

I suppose the point to remember is this thread is about mini racing in general all over the world, not just where we race locally. So different countries have different options on setups.

My MO5 for TITC has had some major chopping and works very well at Whalan, however will be a different kettle of fish on a very high grip track like RC Addict Thailand. The min weight in Thailand is 1200 gms and chop and channel stuff is acceptable. I expect to make the D final easily but will be aiming for a B or C. There are some high calibre drivers attending. I thought a represntative from the Rc mini net guys would have come over for a run.

Regards,

Calvin.

are yes, i lose track of which thread i post in sometime.

The clear band I use takes the play out of the captured ball joints.
This keeps the arms sweeped back at all times due to the excessive bump steer.
I will post a picture to explain why you use it on any vehicle.

To remove bump steer, you need to angle the upper A-arm to the same
angle as the steering control arm.

I never seen this much controlled bump steer in any race vehicle before??

It is what it is...can be fixed.

Bob,

Where can I find a copy of the rules you guys run?