Hey,
3.5* is max Rear toe in for most kits and setups.

There are 1* Rear hubs available as I am currently running them.

Dave.

has anyone tried 40weight oil in the rear gear diff and what was the result? i'll be running 3.5 no boost so just wondering if it is thick enough any input will be appreciated.


thanks Brian

ive noticed the 6.1 kit seems a lot better organized not one problem yet i love these cars almost done with mine been building since friday after work. Im just a perfectionist love this hobby im going to open up our track if i can finish befor 1

OK! Now I get it

Quick question. Bought a 6.1 and was wondering if during build, was there anything set up or build wise that I should do differently or change right off the bat? For example, when building my dex410 there are certain diff oil weights you automatically start with regardless of the kit instructions. There are shock positions that racers automatically go to. Are there shims or setting (toe, camber
,roll center, etc) that are the default go to that racers are using which are the standard? Trying to avoid the inevitable rebuild right off the go. Any tips
, tricks would be appreciated. Thanks in advance. Just getting back into tc.

Setup out of the box is pretty good.

Just got mine Friday morning and I'll start my build this afternoon. Last AE car I had was the TC4 and I had good success with it so I'm looking forward to the build. One of the factory drivers in our area suggested box setup works great so that's how mines going together.

The box setup is pretty easy to drive in any class that's 17.5 or slower. Of course, that doesn't mean it is the fastest. If you are a newer driver it'll work great and helps keep you consistent.

I wound up with 30wt oil in the rear gear diff. Easy to drive, and it seems to keep the rear a bit tame on low/medium bite.

Once you get the hang of the car or want to run faster classes, I'd suggest shortening the camber links (or at least the rear), and depending on grip level experimenting with stiffer springs.

Also, I would suggest buying Reflex pistons and bladders. They make a big difference with the dampening.

The 6.1 rear hubs are different. If you want hub toe, you change the insert that hoes in the hubs. Front caster is set the same way

So out of those that have the 6.1, has anyone seen if the new hubs are more durable than the old pieces? I've built mine but have not run it yet, so I'm curious if anyone has "durabilty tested" (read crashed) their car yet and if so how it fared?

Will are release a upgrade kit or Ppl with the reg tc6? Or do we need to buy a whole 6.1 kit?

I have run my car for a few weeks with no spare plastic parts and not broken anything (knock on wood).

Arms, castor and steering blocks seem very strong.

Apparently you aren't knocking wood!

needs some help guys.
are there any tips on building the AE gear diff?

my gear is leaking big time.

diff halves appear to not seal correctly are there any tricks to keep this from happening.

Are you using the rubber seal?