RC10B4.1 FT/WC
12-15-2011 | 10:29 PM
#8537
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 256
From: So Cal
^^^ doesn't matter.
Has anyone who is using RPM ball cups had an issue with the length of the steering TB and the amount of thread that goes into the cup? The RPMS are just a little shorter than the AE ones and just don't put enough thread into the cup for my liking. I run Lunsford TB's just for a little extra length but they don't match..
Same issue on the rear links of the T4, but haven't had a problem with those..
Has anyone who is using RPM ball cups had an issue with the length of the steering TB and the amount of thread that goes into the cup? The RPMS are just a little shorter than the AE ones and just don't put enough thread into the cup for my liking. I run Lunsford TB's just for a little extra length but they don't match..
Same issue on the rear links of the T4, but haven't had a problem with those..
12-15-2011 | 10:53 PM
#8540
Tech Rookie
iTrader: (5)
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 11
From: Snoqualmie, WA
12-15-2011 | 11:03 PM
#8541
12-15-2011 | 11:12 PM
#8542
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
you kinda end up with #2.5 piston
or
in between a #3 & #2 piston
You get just a little more pack compared to a #2 piston
good question
12-16-2011 | 02:18 AM
#8545
450bl issues?
Hi everyone:I just picked up a BL RTR to compliment my 22.I wanted to see
if it suited my driving style better(it does).The rtr esc,450 bl and 3300 motor
have plenty of rip-I have a tekin rs/duo 17.5 boosted in the 22-but it sometimes just quits for about 2-3 seconds and then responds normally.Its not hot-or overgeared.Is this common on a non sensored system?I race so it can be a deal breaker.I love the car and got a +8 chassis for it.Is anyone else having this problem?Is there a fix?I've recalibrated it a few times still happens sporadically. thanks-
if it suited my driving style better(it does).The rtr esc,450 bl and 3300 motor
have plenty of rip-I have a tekin rs/duo 17.5 boosted in the 22-but it sometimes just quits for about 2-3 seconds and then responds normally.Its not hot-or overgeared.Is this common on a non sensored system?I race so it can be a deal breaker.I love the car and got a +8 chassis for it.Is anyone else having this problem?Is there a fix?I've recalibrated it a few times still happens sporadically. thanks-
12-16-2011 | 05:36 AM
#8546
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 87
^^^ doesn't matter.
Has anyone who is using RPM ball cups had an issue with the length of the steering TB and the amount of thread that goes into the cup? The RPMS are just a little shorter than the AE ones and just don't put enough thread into the cup for my liking. I run Lunsford TB's just for a little extra length but they don't match.. Same issue on the rear links of the T4, but haven't had a problem with those..
Has anyone who is using RPM ball cups had an issue with the length of the steering TB and the amount of thread that goes into the cup? The RPMS are just a little shorter than the AE ones and just don't put enough thread into the cup for my liking. I run Lunsford TB's just for a little extra length but they don't match..
Same issue on the rear links of the T4, but haven't had a problem with those..
12-16-2011 | 06:28 AM
#8547
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,743
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
mekios, my point was it doesn't matter if you use the long shank on the inside or the outside. And yes the reason to use the long shank on one one end is to put extra thread into the cups.
12-16-2011 | 06:31 AM
#8548
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,743
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
12-16-2011 | 06:37 AM
#8549
Tech Initiate
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 40
Exactly the problem I had when I went all white rpm's... You would think that would make the longer ends in white.... It's just cosmetic... Running blue longs on the inboard side
