Increasing your total link roll center. C-hubs drop the outer mount 2mm and in between mounting holes for the ball stud.

If are moving the roll center without moving the inner ball stud and able to have a different length link.

Was the difference in the quality of the piston or just the size of the piston holes?

The #55's are 1.3mm,im currently on 1.1mm with the Team C pistons...I tested with 30r and 32.5f,but the shock just reacted to quick..hence going to 32.5r and 37.5f....

If i go to the 1.3mm holes,i will be going up again in oil weights which i really dont want to do...

What springs are you running on the Team C's?
Thanks for the info.


Im running the Durango springs,Light blue front and Light red rear....i might be slightly out in my spring rates after checking something...the AE brown fronts 2.8(L.Blue front 2.5)...green rears 1.9(L.Red rear 2.05)

That could explain why i was watching my front shocks blowing through there travel heaps yesterday causing the buggy to pivot mid corner on the front wheel....i might try the Durango black fronts...2.85......Cool,just saved me chasing my tail a little...Thanks man for getting me to think a little more about my shocks.

Well the stock pistons are 6 hole. Losi are 4 hole. I am running Losi springs on it right now to try it out... Haven't tried yet... 30 front 27.5 rear

I didnt know that about the Losi pistons,i will keep that info stored for a try later on...cheers

I contemplated the 22 springs too....do they fit over the upper collar correctly?

Is anybody changing the front screws that hold on the tires/wheels? Ive been having a problem rounding mine out really easy. And half of it is my fault due to poor eye sight. LOL.

Does anyone know if i can change the shafts out to match the rear and just use nuts? Or is there a better/stronger screw that you can recommend.

Thx
Jesse

I swapped my axles out with the old nut type because I was used to using a nut driver to remove my SC10 front wheels. Sorry I do not have the part number.

Yes

Noobish question, if I de-solder and resolder the same motor to the same ESC would I need to recalibrate the esc/motor?

I wouldnt think so, but thats just a guess.

Awesome vid on 2wd from BT at the spectrum: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6hLFU2LwFWc

What you're actually calibrating is the ESC/Radio, so no.

Excellent video with Brent.

Perfect, Thanks!

Nice video from Trackside, but I have a question. I am in the process of switching mine over to the new chassis and was wondering if plastic parts are still being used on tracks with less grip. I see most people are using the carbon parts but the track I race at I would consider a slick track that gets watered between every round. Usually a little cold out on the track as well. Silt dirt with very little clay. Racing line is generally clean and usually a little damp. What should I try first?

Try all the plastic parts first! The carbon parts make a huge difference in the responsiveness of the car. On low grip it'd probly hurt more than help.