Sirio engines thread
#438
evo 2 3p plugs? which are the best for hot days, summer racing.
and which are the easiest to tune with?
also what will be the best carb starting points to start breaking in my evo2 3p?
and which are the easiest to tune with?
also what will be the best carb starting points to start breaking in my evo2 3p?
Last edited by gentleman81; 07-23-2004 at 10:31 PM.
#441
Originally posted by gentleman81
evo 2 3p plugs? which are the best for hot days, summer racing.
and which are the easiest to tune with?
also what will be the best carb starting points to start breaking in my evo2 3p?
evo 2 3p plugs? which are the best for hot days, summer racing.
and which are the easiest to tune with?
also what will be the best carb starting points to start breaking in my evo2 3p?
AFM
"When tuning your Sirio carb DO NOT adjust the mid-range needle. This is set from the factory on a flow meter to help calibrate the other two needles and should not be touched unless you really have a grasp on carburetor tuning. The mid-range needle can be found underneath the high-speed needle on the end of the carb opposite the low-speed needle.
Sirio .12 (General Carburetor Settings)
High Speed - 5.5 turns
Low Speed - 3-1/2 (Generally this should be flush with the end of the slide)
Mid Range - Flush then one turn out.
We recommend the use of the following plugs
- Sirio .12: (standard plug) Novarossi C7S or C8S
- Sirio .12 (turbo plug) Sirio S001720127
Crank pin on a new stock .12 engine has 4.428mm.
The right play between crank pin and conrod bushing is 0,04 - 0,05 mm. if you're not able to check it, I suggest you change the conrod every 2-3 hours running.
The life of the conrod depends mainly on the fuel you use, as the lubrication and the right carburetion keeps your engine running well for long time.
This is the correct Break-In procedure for the Sirio S12 Evo2
1.- One (1) tank in the bench at WOT with very rich setting of HSN (6.5 turns out or more), avoiding it to go on 4 stroke.
COOL DOWN
2.- Three (3) tanks on the track at WOT on the main straight with very rich setting of HSN, as if the engine wants to die, and tuning the HSN (around original base setting)at the end of third tank to get almost full power.
COOL DOWN AFTER EVERY TANK
3.- For 20% Nitro, use .20 head shim and N° 7 Glow plug.
After that, the engine will give more power every new tank".
ANDREA ROSSI
Lavorazioni Meccaniche srl
Via Meucci, 3 Seggiano di Pioltello Mi Italy
Tel +39 0292160235 Fax +39 0292160581
WWW.STAR-MOTOR.COM
#444
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (39)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 770
From: San Juan, PR
Gentlemen: I also use on my Sirio/Collari the Nova Rossi number 6 (medium) turbo plug with good results.
For break in, I use the method described by Andrea and it works very well. What I do is after each a tank I usually close the needle 1/8 of a turn. Do this after you have done a tank or two at WOT in a very rich setting. In total, I give about 10 tanks of break in: 2 at WOT Rich, around 5 at WOT closing the needle little by little (1/8 of a turn) after each tank and after that I turn the needles to factory settings. and work my way up from there for full power settings.
For break in, I use the method described by Andrea and it works very well. What I do is after each a tank I usually close the needle 1/8 of a turn. Do this after you have done a tank or two at WOT in a very rich setting. In total, I give about 10 tanks of break in: 2 at WOT Rich, around 5 at WOT closing the needle little by little (1/8 of a turn) after each tank and after that I turn the needles to factory settings. and work my way up from there for full power settings.
#446
Originally posted by gentleman81
how can u get the motor to get to full throttle with the settings as rich as u say, once u touch the throttle it floods, something doesnt sound right with the wide open throttle thing?
how can u get the motor to get to full throttle with the settings as rich as u say, once u touch the throttle it floods, something doesnt sound right with the wide open throttle thing?
Whwn you go to the track, start with base setting and gradually open HSN until tou can comfortably run your car rich, but not to the point that it shuts off.
AFM
#448
Originally posted by KMW
Anyone know where I can order an M. Collari Sirio online or by phone (i.e. it's in stock)? Also, are there any M. Collari versions of the Evo 2 motors available?
Anyone know where I can order an M. Collari Sirio online or by phone (i.e. it's in stock)? Also, are there any M. Collari versions of the Evo 2 motors available?
AFM
#449
breaking in a new evo 2 does it seem not to want to heat up, when i started it with factory settings it was at about 120 deg F and was running fine, of course it was flooding but i had to go in a couple turns on the hsn and the lsn to getting it up to running temp even tho it was still very rich. i was told that the motor must get to a good temp for proper breaking to take place, what are some of the temp ranges i should see when breaking in this motor, from start to finish?
#450
Originally posted by gentleman81
breaking in a new evo 2 does it seem not to want to heat up, when i started it with factory settings it was at about 120 deg F and was running fine, of course it was flooding but i had to go in a couple turns on the hsn and the lsn to getting it up to running temp even tho it was still very rich. i was told that the motor must get to a good temp for proper breaking to take place, what are some of the temp ranges i should see when breaking in this motor, from start to finish?
breaking in a new evo 2 does it seem not to want to heat up, when i started it with factory settings it was at about 120 deg F and was running fine, of course it was flooding but i had to go in a couple turns on the hsn and the lsn to getting it up to running temp even tho it was still very rich. i was told that the motor must get to a good temp for proper breaking to take place, what are some of the temp ranges i should see when breaking in this motor, from start to finish?
AFM



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