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Old 12-12-2011 | 07:03 PM
  #8446  
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Originally Posted by flippz
i just followed racer 53 "how to build a ball diff" to the T. the only problem is i do not have the "FEELING" for when the diff is correct. when i get to the part to set the slipper i can not get the front tires off the ground. there is a loud honking sound from the car, i think it is the diff. not sure if it is to loose or to tight? i do not want to tear up anything so if you guys can help out and tell me which way to go.
by the way that is a great video and once i get the feeling i will be good.

thanks for the help in advance.
scott ross
its a loose diff, tighten it very little at a time. make sure ur slipper is set right also.
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Old 12-12-2011 | 07:10 PM
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Originally Posted by brent701
a 24/81 is a 8.78 FDR and may work depending on track.
that 87/18 is what the team suggests for full boost and full timing

with no timing or boost on a 13.5 i have been running 81/26 on a novak 13.5, so 81/24 should be on the nose for a d3
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Old 12-12-2011 | 07:20 PM
  #8448  
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Originally Posted by idrummerboy13
its a loose diff, tighten it very little at a time. make sure ur slipper is set right also.
the sipper is set correct, i think its the diff. i wil tighten a little at a times.
thanks. by correct i have it at the factory settings and will tighten as it goes. but now i have it all the way down and the wheels are like my hopes. not getting up all,lol.
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Old 12-12-2011 | 07:42 PM
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Any bodys give a bit more clearance for the esc? I have a MMP with the fan still on it and it holds the body up just a little with the stock B4 body. I need a new body anyway and would like a bit more room if possible.
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Old 12-12-2011 | 07:45 PM
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Is the thumb screw battery hold down longer than the stock bolts with holes in them? I am using a gens ace 2s 5000mah and its about on the last thread or two for hold down screws. I would like a few more threads in there if possible. Any Ideas?
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Old 12-12-2011 | 08:32 PM
  #8451  
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all right got it fixed. the ball diff was still loose. tightned about a nother turn and burnt it in and it now wroks great
thanks for the quick help.

shes ready for the next race.
scott ross
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Old 12-12-2011 | 08:50 PM
  #8452  
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Originally Posted by YankeeFan123
I use some of them, but local sponsored guys like Numan in So Cal uses all of them and I just think that they look better, I dont know if they have any performance aspect
Those would be ti.
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Old 12-12-2011 | 09:16 PM
  #8453  
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Originally Posted by flippz
all right got it fixed. the ball diff was still loose. tightned about a nother turn and burnt it in and it now wroks great
thanks for the quick help.

shes ready for the next race.
scott ross
Diff and slipper settings can be tricky. Always make sure your diff is not too loose compared to your slipper or you'll bark your diff and it'll be shot. It's a lot safer having your slipper slip over your diff barking. Make sure you check your slipper every time you make a diff adjustment as well.
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Old 12-12-2011 | 09:28 PM
  #8454  
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Originally Posted by Mini-Mod
Diff and slipper settings can be tricky. Always make sure your diff is not too loose compared to your slipper or you'll bark your diff and it'll be shot. It's a lot safer having your slipper slip over your diff barking. Make sure you check your slipper every time you make a diff adjustment as well.
yeah i was scared to have to have the diff to tight. i tightened up more and and the car lifts ike it is suppose to. tightned the sipper and adjusted as needed. learning to do this is fun, but glad we have the forum fr safety
scott ross
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Old 12-13-2011 | 01:31 AM
  #8455  
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Originally Posted by Jay13
Any bodys give a bit more clearance for the esc? I have a MMP with the fan still on it and it holds the body up just a little with the stock B4 body. I need a new body anyway and would like a bit more room if possible.
This guy used to,and still may make a B4 shell with a scoop for the MM Pro specificially....they may still be available when he updates his AE bodys...

Awesome products,great guy to deal with

http://bugleboyracing.com/

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Old 12-13-2011 | 01:46 AM
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Little update on the Team C Big bores im playing around with...

After building them and running them on our last clubby for the year,i can say,im very impressed.......add the same sort of stability and consistency as what the +8mm chassis does....very impressed with the result...
Could get away with less than perfect landings way easier.....

The shocks need a little work,they managed to get me on the podium 3 times on the night in the finals,so there not far off....

The orings are junk,bin them and replace with anything...they are too big,and create big stiction....
Replaced the lower retainers with kyosho retainers,there shorter,and suit the durango spring better

Piston holes are tiny...0.9mm approx,30 weight oil felt like 70 weight...
I drilled all out to 1.1mm as a starting point...
Then added 30 weight rear,and 32.5 front...tested today,way too fast reacting...car just wouldnt settle through sweeper,or bumps...didnt jump too well either

Added 3 limiters rear,and 4 front...still a little too much droop,also i went to 32.5 rear,and 37.5 front.....hopefully it settles the buggy a little

Im running Durango Light Blue fronts,and Light Red rears....The setup on the chassis is Vassa worlds....
Running on big outdoor track,big jumps,medium traction....

Will report back on how it goes tomorow.....I can give accurate measurements of the Big Bores Vs's the V2's if anyone likes,and also a more detailed description on the fitting...
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Old 12-13-2011 | 03:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Peli
This guy used to,and still may make a B4 shell with a scoop for the MM Pro specificially....they may still be available when he updates his AE bodys...

Awesome products,great guy to deal with

http://bugleboyracing.com/

Yeah i've got a few of those shells available for standard chassis length, haven't got any updated +8 ones yet, plenty of room for the MMP with fan on my B4 as pictured
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Old 12-13-2011 | 03:22 AM
  #8458  
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Originally Posted by Rysuleod
Larry (pops) posted this on the 17.5 thread on the Mike's racing local forum:
"B4.1 gearing 75-34 final drive = 5.75 that will work"

The 2nd double in the middle is the only jump that requires any skill on that track layout. Stay left and land as close to the inside pipe in the off-camber section as you can. The gap is farther between the jump and landing on the right side. You will see people case that jump all day even in 4wd mod. I have no experience with 17.5 but I suspect the thing is to backside the 1st double or land with as much speed as you can so you can clear the 2nd jump. Good luck out there and if you need help with secret gearing still give me a PM. I asked 3 people but I'm waiting for their response.

Jeff K

Thanks. I changed some stuff Larry suggested like shock oil, and used 75/33 and it was night and day better. Best lap was under 22sec. That's a gain of atleast 5 or more seconds. I love going fast so I have my boosted 13.5 and 7.5, but I really like this 17.5. It really makes you a better driver.
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Old 12-13-2011 | 04:50 AM
  #8459  
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Originally Posted by flippz
the sipper is set correct, i think its the diff. i wil tighten a little at a times.
thanks. by correct i have it at the factory settings and will tighten as it goes. but now i have it all the way down and the wheels are like my hopes. not getting up all,lol.
Something I learned many moons ago...if you lock down both outdrives with a couple of screwdrivers you can tighten the diff down slowly until you can't twist the diff itself.
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Old 12-13-2011 | 06:26 AM
  #8460  
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Originally Posted by bds81175
Something I learned many moons ago...if you lock down both outdrives with a couple of screwdrivers you can tighten the diff down slowly until you can't twist the diff itself.
racer edge makes a diff build tool
http://www.stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bi...umb=on&smode=0
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