RC10B4.1 FT/WC
#8446
i just followed racer 53 "how to build a ball diff" to the T. the only problem is i do not have the "FEELING" for when the diff is correct. when i get to the part to set the slipper i can not get the front tires off the ground. there is a loud honking sound from the car, i think it is the diff. not sure if it is to loose or to tight? i do not want to tear up anything so if you guys can help out and tell me which way to go.
by the way that is a great video and once i get the feeling i will be good.
thanks for the help in advance.
scott ross
by the way that is a great video and once i get the feeling i will be good.
thanks for the help in advance.
scott ross
#8447
#8448
thanks. by correct i have it at the factory settings and will tighten as it goes. but now i have it all the way down and the wheels are like my hopes. not getting up all,lol.
#8450
Tech Regular
iTrader: (30)
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 354
From: Ohio
Is the thumb screw battery hold down longer than the stock bolts with holes in them? I am using a gens ace 2s 5000mah and its about on the last thread or two for hold down screws. I would like a few more threads in there if possible. Any Ideas?
#8452
#8453
Diff and slipper settings can be tricky. Always make sure your diff is not too loose compared to your slipper or you'll bark your diff and it'll be shot. It's a lot safer having your slipper slip over your diff barking. Make sure you check your slipper every time you make a diff adjustment as well.
#8454
Diff and slipper settings can be tricky. Always make sure your diff is not too loose compared to your slipper or you'll bark your diff and it'll be shot. It's a lot safer having your slipper slip over your diff barking. Make sure you check your slipper every time you make a diff adjustment as well.
scott ross
#8455
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Awesome products,great guy to deal with


http://bugleboyracing.com/
#8456
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 2,704
From: Sydney,Australia
Little update on the Team C Big bores im playing around with...
After building them and running them on our last clubby for the year,i can say,im very impressed.......add the same sort of stability and consistency as what the +8mm chassis does....very impressed with the result...
Could get away with less than perfect landings way easier.....
The shocks need a little work,they managed to get me on the podium 3 times on the night in the finals,so there not far off....
The orings are junk,bin them and replace with anything...they are too big,and create big stiction....
Replaced the lower retainers with kyosho retainers,there shorter,and suit the durango spring better
Piston holes are tiny...0.9mm approx,30 weight oil felt like 70 weight...
I drilled all out to 1.1mm as a starting point...
Then added 30 weight rear,and 32.5 front...tested today,way too fast reacting...car just wouldnt settle through sweeper,or bumps...didnt jump too well either
Added 3 limiters rear,and 4 front...still a little too much droop,also i went to 32.5 rear,and 37.5 front.....hopefully it settles the buggy a little
Im running Durango Light Blue fronts,and Light Red rears....The setup on the chassis is Vassa worlds....
Running on big outdoor track,big jumps,medium traction....
Will report back on how it goes tomorow.....I can give accurate measurements of the Big Bores Vs's the V2's if anyone likes,and also a more detailed description on the fitting...
After building them and running them on our last clubby for the year,i can say,im very impressed.......add the same sort of stability and consistency as what the +8mm chassis does....very impressed with the result...
Could get away with less than perfect landings way easier.....

The shocks need a little work,they managed to get me on the podium 3 times on the night in the finals,so there not far off....
The orings are junk,bin them and replace with anything...they are too big,and create big stiction....
Replaced the lower retainers with kyosho retainers,there shorter,and suit the durango spring better
Piston holes are tiny...0.9mm approx,30 weight oil felt like 70 weight...
I drilled all out to 1.1mm as a starting point...
Then added 30 weight rear,and 32.5 front...tested today,way too fast reacting...car just wouldnt settle through sweeper,or bumps...didnt jump too well either
Added 3 limiters rear,and 4 front...still a little too much droop,also i went to 32.5 rear,and 37.5 front.....hopefully it settles the buggy a little
Im running Durango Light Blue fronts,and Light Red rears....The setup on the chassis is Vassa worlds....
Running on big outdoor track,big jumps,medium traction....
Will report back on how it goes tomorow.....I can give accurate measurements of the Big Bores Vs's the V2's if anyone likes,and also a more detailed description on the fitting...
#8457
This guy used to,and still may make a B4 shell with a scoop for the MM Pro specificially....they may still be available when he updates his AE bodys...
Awesome products,great guy to deal with

http://bugleboyracing.com/

Awesome products,great guy to deal with


http://bugleboyracing.com/


#8458
Larry (pops) posted this on the 17.5 thread on the Mike's racing local forum:
"B4.1 gearing 75-34 final drive = 5.75 that will work"
The 2nd double in the middle is the only jump that requires any skill on that track layout. Stay left and land as close to the inside pipe in the off-camber section as you can. The gap is farther between the jump and landing on the right side. You will see people case that jump all day even in 4wd mod. I have no experience with 17.5 but I suspect the thing is to backside the 1st double or land with as much speed as you can so you can clear the 2nd jump. Good luck out there and if you need help with secret gearing still give me a PM. I asked 3 people but I'm waiting for their response.
Jeff K
"B4.1 gearing 75-34 final drive = 5.75 that will work"
The 2nd double in the middle is the only jump that requires any skill on that track layout. Stay left and land as close to the inside pipe in the off-camber section as you can. The gap is farther between the jump and landing on the right side. You will see people case that jump all day even in 4wd mod. I have no experience with 17.5 but I suspect the thing is to backside the 1st double or land with as much speed as you can so you can clear the 2nd jump. Good luck out there and if you need help with secret gearing still give me a PM. I asked 3 people but I'm waiting for their response.
Jeff K
Thanks. I changed some stuff Larry suggested like shock oil, and used 75/33 and it was night and day better. Best lap was under 22sec. That's a gain of atleast 5 or more seconds. I love going fast so I have my boosted 13.5 and 7.5, but I really like this 17.5. It really makes you a better driver.
#8459
Something I learned many moons ago...if you lock down both outdrives with a couple of screwdrivers you can tighten the diff down slowly until you can't twist the diff itself.
#8460



