RC10B4.1 FT/WC
12-08-2011 | 07:46 PM
#8311
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
and if I do use em, which tower are they going to be near? A, B, or C?
12-08-2011 | 07:57 PM
#8312
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 8,616
From: New Jersey
12-08-2011 | 08:03 PM
#8313
You've got quite a difference in roll center from front to rear, especially if you shaved the U brace down in the back. Try reducing the number of washers in the front one at a time. You might also try to find a tire with a nice solid rib on the outside. Now that I mention that, the link length in the front might be taking your front tire out of good contact with the track. The link length changes the amount of camber gain that you get when the suspension compresses. Might be that when you are rocking back under acceleration you are getting some unwanted camber change. You could try changing the link length in the front as well.
I will remove one front washer and add it to the rear and see how it does
What is the main cause of push in the corner? I guess if I can better understand it I will better understand the changes being made or need to be made.
12-08-2011 | 08:07 PM
#8314
these were the ones I saw
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Carrier-B4-B44
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Carrier-B4-B44
12-08-2011 | 08:11 PM
#8315
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,739
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
A tip for using the FT aluminum rear hubs, drill and tap the bottom and use a small grub screw on the hinge pin. Takes out almost all the slop that the FT hubs have...
may have been mentioned before but I figured it was worth putting out there again.
may have been mentioned before but I figured it was worth putting out there again.
12-08-2011 | 08:16 PM
#8316
In general, lower roll centers make it tougher to carve a turn. That's what you've got in the front with the washers. Raising the mounting point lowers the roll center.
I would think you would want to shorten the front link length. This increases the camber gain and also raises the roll center.
Make sure you only do one adjustment at a time!! Hope this helps out some.
12-08-2011 | 08:48 PM
#8318
Check out this summation of the Tuning With Camber Links thread: https://docs.google.com/document/d/1...hl=en_US&pli=1
In general, lower roll centers make it tougher to carve a turn. That's what you've got in the front with the washers. Raising the mounting point lowers the roll center.
I would think you would want to shorten the front link length. This increases the camber gain and also raises the roll center.
Make sure you only do one adjustment at a time!! Hope this helps out some.
In general, lower roll centers make it tougher to carve a turn. That's what you've got in the front with the washers. Raising the mounting point lowers the roll center.
I would think you would want to shorten the front link length. This increases the camber gain and also raises the roll center.
Make sure you only do one adjustment at a time!! Hope this helps out some.
I have push (understeer) going out of a corner. So per that link.
Lower inside end of camber link = higher roll center
Higher inside end of camber link = lower roll center
If you have problem pushing through the corners, raise the roll center in the rear
Which to me is what my rear end is at. and the front end is at. Higher roll center through out OR is the front to high compared to the rear?
12-08-2011 | 09:01 PM
#8320
I just read that link. Thank you for that.. Now lets see if i have this correct.
I have push (understeer) going out of a corner. So per that link.
Lower inside end of camber link = higher roll center
Higher inside end of camber link = lower roll center
If you have problem pushing through the corners, raise the roll center in the rear
Which to me is what my rear end is at. and the front end is at. Higher roll center through out OR is the front to high compared to the rear?
I have push (understeer) going out of a corner. So per that link.
Lower inside end of camber link = higher roll center
Higher inside end of camber link = lower roll center
If you have problem pushing through the corners, raise the roll center in the rear
Which to me is what my rear end is at. and the front end is at. Higher roll center through out OR is the front to high compared to the rear?
). You are already happy with that. I would focus the tinkering on the front end. Start by removing the first washer. Drive it. If it feels better, take out another washer. Repeat until you have found a nice balance between the front and rear. Fred Swain (one of the main contributors to that thread) recommends that once you have found a balance, you keep raising the roll center front and rear the same amount until the car becomes difficult to handle on the high speed sweepers and such. It should be kick-butt fast on the track at that point.
12-08-2011 | 09:06 PM
#8321
Yeah, it can be confusing. If you have more roll stiffness at one end or the other it will basically force the other end to roll farther. If you notice they talk about actually lifting a tire up off the track. I'm guessing you probably aren't actually lifting a tire, but maybe you are. I wouldn't mess with your rear (). You are already happy with that. I would focus the tinkering on the front end. Start by removing the first washer. Drive it. If it feels better, take out another washer. Repeat until you have found a nice balance between the front and rear. Fred Swain (one of the main contributors to that thread) recommends that once you have found a balance, you keep raising the roll center front and rear the same amount until the car becomes difficult to handle on the high speed sweepers and such. It should be kick-butt fast on the track at that point.
). You are already happy with that. I would focus the tinkering on the front end. Start by removing the first washer. Drive it. If it feels better, take out another washer. Repeat until you have found a nice balance between the front and rear. Fred Swain (one of the main contributors to that thread) recommends that once you have found a balance, you keep raising the roll center front and rear the same amount until the car becomes difficult to handle on the high speed sweepers and such. It should be kick-butt fast on the track at that point.I will start checked the understeer out of a corner and remove a washer retest and so on. see how it does. I could add 2 washers in the back and be back to stock inner ball stud height I had one washer added to that before I did the brace mod. good thing I have a lot of washers (spacers)
but Am I understanding the roll center adjustment right like that link said
Higher the ball stud = higher roll center?
Lower ball stud = lower roll center.
Shorter link = higher roll center
Longer link = lower roll center
12-08-2011 | 09:18 PM
#8323
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 2,974
From: Norwood, OH...and CCRCR and The OhioRCFactory
12-08-2011 | 09:29 PM
#8324
12-08-2011 | 09:30 PM
#8325
Registered User
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 411
From: Mesa, AZ
YES. less rotation. '
Its easier to drive but when you get fast you will want more steering so you approach the corner with the rear end coming around with good rotation. I use 2.5 degree toe in block when traction is high, 3.0 when I want a little more traction. 3.5 is way to much and makes me really slow.
Watch cav. drive at the spektrum race horizionhobby made some vids. He slides around every corner.
Its easier to drive but when you get fast you will want more steering so you approach the corner with the rear end coming around with good rotation. I use 2.5 degree toe in block when traction is high, 3.0 when I want a little more traction. 3.5 is way to much and makes me really slow.
Watch cav. drive at the spektrum race horizionhobby made some vids. He slides around every corner.