Just saw springs below, you might also have the diff a bit too tight. Shock limiters could help reduce the weight transfer to the rear under throttle. Gotta be careful with that because in a lot of cases you want that on throttle rear traction. Its amazing what a 1/2oz of weight will do on top of the servo too. Post your setup. Lets check it out!!

EH idk my b4.1 is still in really good shape but the front end is sloppy and I will prob sell it and buy the new b4.1. Hopefully it comes out before christmas.

DEFINATLY not kyosho its to much $ and i didn't like the sp2.

You dont want to fit in at long Island? They all run kyosho!

Front:
Brown springs
Inner shock tower shock mount
outer A-arm shock mount.
21mm ride height
30wt oil
inner ball stud 3 washers
bumper steer 2 washers
1/4 to the right and left of servo.
Inline Front axles

Rear:
Green springs
Inner tower shock mount
Inner a-arm shock mount
21mm ride height
U-brace shaved flush
No ball stud washers
Carbon fiber hub towers
.5 rear hubs
27.5wt
1/2 oz weight center of tower
1/4 in left/right triangle. total 1oz
1/2 oz by receiver
2deg anti-squat

If needed I can post some pics of all the placement of weight

Rear ball diff is almost to loose. Slipper is 1 thread in from flush.

It drivers very well under power and traction is there. I just have a push in the turns under throttle. no throttle it turns on a dime.

oh dude dont even get me started

right now in stock its a sticken rb5, a.e a.e

those two a.e's are me and my buddy goode who can never take the win

but yes lots kyosho, small group of losi guys and a.e guys which are in the middle as far as amount.

me personally i like my rear shock on the outside on the arms it has more cornering speed and after trying what cherry said about the ball studs i think you have to much of a difference between the front and rear since you shaved it,try moving the shocks out on the arm and then raise the rear inner link

The rear feels great. the camber link was lowered 2mm's on the outside and inside. the C-hub towers lower it 2mm and the U-brace mount was 2.1mm's

What did Wild Cherry do with the ball studs?

Use 0 degree rear hubs that will help a lot and try rasing the ride height I run 24mm F+R.

What does everyone think that is running the Losi big bore springs do for the car? Was wanting to try these and see what they do.

added another 0.30 washer

You've got quite a difference in roll center from front to rear, especially if you shaved the U brace down in the back. Try reducing the number of washers in the front one at a time. You might also try to find a tire with a nice solid rib on the outside. Now that I mention that, the link length in the front might be taking your front tire out of good contact with the track. The link length changes the amount of camber gain that you get when the suspension compresses. Might be that when you are rocking back under acceleration you are getting some unwanted camber change. You could try changing the link length in the front as well.

doe the .5 deg hubs really make that big of a difference?

YES. less rotation. '

Its easier to drive but when you get fast you will want more steering so you approach the corner with the rear end coming around with good rotation. I use 2.5 degree toe in block when traction is high, 3.0 when I want a little more traction. 3.5 is way to much and makes me really slow.

Watch cav. drive at the spektrum race horizionhobby made some vids. He slides around every corner.

makes sense. I'll have to pick up the other ones then.

just buy the plastic ones, they last longer are are cheaper plus bearings are the same so you dont need the big ones.