Before I got a slapmaster I did just that, used 3...like this...


AXLE DIFF )()NUT

I tried both the 1 washer and 3 washers on my 10th pancar.
My diff seemed to last longer with 3 washers.

Or get rid of the cone and washers and replace w/this:

IRS527BL Short Diff Cone / Spacer - Blue

Or

Slapmaster's diff bearing.

Appealing to the masses of greater intelligence on this one!! Just getting things together for 1/12th scale and need some recommendations for a servo. Many thanks in advance!!!

What chassis are you building. If using mounts many of them only accept certain servos. If "flat mounting"/gluing to chassis it becomes less critical.

You'll not go wrong with:

Analog:

JR 3550

Digital

Futaba 9650

JR 3650

KO 949

Chassis is a CRC 3.2R and it does have mounts.

If they're the black "adjustable" mounts that were standard with the 3.2R you can probably use any of the above afaik.

If they're the red aluminum "fixed" mounts they're really made for the JR servos (3550 or 3650) based on the chassis drilling. You can play around with that some to accomodate others, but both those are very good servos.

What is the advantages/disadvantages of flat mounting the servo? Or, with other words: why would you choose flat monting for the servo?

With AE style front ends and steering turnbuckle length and angle, Mounting the servo flat will take ackerman out of the steering geometry when setup correctly. Angled servo mounting makes the ackerman angle right but on carpet where you have higher bite conditions, flat servo mounting makes the car easier to drive.

The CRC front end has a shorter turnbuckle and the ballstud location is different from the AE front end so i am not sure to how it would effect that front end being i have never tried it.

I use yet another option, a new style Corally thrust race is a pretty much perect fit on the L4 axle. Just put it on top of the outer bearing, then the belville washer, then the nut. Bit fiddly but works well.

It just bugged me that the sweet spot seemed so small with just the 1 washer, will try it with a few washers this weekend to see if it's any easier to set up.

Stu

Thanks, protc3. Clear explanation.

Bout time Don!

StuartC: could you post a picture of that thrust bearing assembly, I'm having a hard time visualizing it. Thanks in advance!

Regarding a Thurst Bearing on a AE 12th, I did the following, replacing a CRC cone by a custom part:




Comments are welcome!

What Arn0 has done is exactly what makes the Slapmaster kit what it is...he's done the collar so it picks up the OUTER race of the hub bearing rather than the now standard collars that pick up the inner race. This hand-machined collar is why the SlapMaster kits run $20-25...yeah the thrust bearing is a $3 part, making that collar and then packaging and distributing them so they're readily available to all and making sure the shop makes an acceptable mark-up is where the "magic" is. Hell...I've got access to a lathe but if Brian's willing to do 'em for what they sell for I wouldn't bother. Time better spent on something else. Like learning to drive.

Adam, you'll see several well-intentioned people saying just buy a $3 thrust bearing from XYZ Bearings and throw it in there. It HELPS, but it is by NO means the solution. It will make the diff spin a little more freely but it doesn't protect that outer bearing from improper side-loading. That side-load is present at all times when the diff is tensioned but it spikes WAY over the top every time you hit a barrier with your rear wheel/axle. SlapMaster's and Arn0's collar eliminates that impact load from affecting the bearing. End result, longer bearing life and no more heats ruined by poor handling because the bearing got notchy when you hit.