Originally Posted by
Hinecken
Hello there! I have a few questions I hope you can all answer for me as I've been out of the hobby for 15 years now.
I've ordered up a T4.1 Brushless to start racing 2wd ST at my local indoor track, Basher's in Palm Beach Gardens, FL.
Since this is being done on a budget, I still haven't ordered the charger or batteries and it will be a minimum of 2 weeks before I do. In the interim, I would like to take the time to set up my T4.1 as best as possible WITHOUT spending money, or very very little. I know there are somethings I can do right away that will help and don't involve huge dollar investments.
First, is it advisable to back out all of the screws and use blue thread lock on them?
Is there anything specific that needs to be rebuilt or shimmed out of the box? I'll be checking the gear mesh on the motor, but is there anything else I should be looking for?
Should I glue up the servo saver, and if so, where exactly to I glue?
The other night I noticed someone with a stock t4.1 that had soldered two small capacitors (at least that's what they looked like) just in front of the ESC on the battery wires. I've never seen this before and am wondering what the advantage is? Capacitors are dirt cheap and if it helps I'd be willing to purchase those immediately.
Any help you all can give me is much appreciated, I've been reading this thread for days and the forum, but can't seem to find the answers to those questions. Thanks a bunch.
Mike
Any screws threaded into aluminum should have threadlock on them. The long screws that hold the sides of the transmission together and thread into the motor plate should definitely have thread lock and shouldn't be tightened too far or the transmission will bind. You will be able to feel the binding if its present on your car while tightening and loosening the screws. Also the screws on the bottom side of the steering rack shouldn't be too tight either. The bell cranks should flop back and forth loose. If you have a metal geared servo you can glue the steering rack. The larger of the two bell cranks is the servo saver. When you pull the bell crank apart, there is a nut on top with the bearing in it. This nut compresses a spring that holds the two halves of the bellcrank together until force is applied (impact with a marshals hip, for example
). Take it all apart and put some CA on the contact points between the two halves so they can't rotate against each other. Reassemble it with the nut, washer and spring. It definitely makes the buggy and especially the trucks feel more direct when cornering. Hope this helps.