Originally Posted by
Jstall7543
Scuff the flat on the motor shaft with sand paper a little bit then use blue loc tight on the pinion screw. Let it dry for a hour. Standard process.
And if you REALLY want it to work properly, let it cure for 24 hours. At least, according to Loctite, that's the time frame that the blue stuff needs.
Originally Posted by
Jstall7543
The dogbone must be bending due to the way your shocks are setup, you might need to put a limiter or two on the shocks for the positions your running. Bend it back in a vise. Hope this helps.
That's a bit arrogant, don't you think? The dogbone bending MIGHT be due to that...or it might be due to some other thigns... though I do agree, it COULD be the whole binding on drive cup issue...
Originally Posted by
driver5150
Thanks, thats a good point, that might be a simple fix! I was thinking i had something binding in tranny
We thought the same thing when he built his... we pushed it across the desk and rather than having wheels that rolled, the whole thing just slid... after tearing apart half the truck, we saw a pin sticking out beside the bearing in the rear axle carrier...
Originally Posted by
GuiltyByAssoc
FT hex has been working great! But do check each tiny screw after a race (they do tend to move out a bit)
Loctite them! You don't take them off that often!
Originally Posted by
Cain
What are people doing about the little glue holes on the stock rims? has it been common now to just fill them or, do people vent the actual tire like 1/8 tires so the dirt has somewhere to go?
Always vent your tires!
On mine, I use one solid piece of electrical tape around the wheel to cover the two oversized holes on the inside and keep the wheel mostly in balance, then I cut two 1/8th" holes on opposite sides of the tire, right in the middle of the tread. Glue the inside bead to the rim, glue the sidewall to the rim, glue the outside bead to the rim, then put a small squirt of glue in each of the 30 odd little holes. Seems to work great for me!