Originally Posted by
Robotech
What are you seeing as the bad behaviour, the amount of roll or the fact that it's picking up it's wheel? (Honest question here...us on-road guys only know the car is rolling too far when it flips over...LOL)
Traction rolling, which begins as picking up the inside rear tire (usually during left corners more than right for ThunderbirdJunkie...he can just about pin it through a right hander with reckless abandon).
Originally Posted by
f1o7x9
My friend try that with the battery and It works really good in the ground but went he jump the noise waned to go down first. But a good driver can fits that by using the throttle
This is ideal. Watch videos of the pros, they jump nose down for a reason...it's the fast way to jump.
As for the people getting defensive about calling swaybars a band-aid for setup...Swaybars should not be crucial to make a truck handle good, period, ITBJHO. ThunderbirdJunkie doesn't need them on his XXX-SCT, his B4, and he is bound and determined to make this truck handle decent without swaybars (or stupidly heavy front diff fluid...50k? WTF? This can't be needed)
The point is the truck is tunable without throwing a bunch of extra crap at it (IE swaybars, mollasses diff fluid up front) and all cars are like that. Not enough rear traction? Don't add weight to the rear, just move what you got as far back as possible. Can't get it far back enough? Change your thought process, IE saddle packs in the rear.
There's a lot in this truck. Sure, swaybars help, but adding them to prevent an inside-rear tire lift is counterproductive to your setup.