Originally Posted by
Ed237
RE DROOP: This is a huge adjustment and you would be amazed at how many really fast guys dont even know if they have more droop on the front or the rear of their cars.
I have never used the 'Shock Length' method because if you change the way the shock is mounted it is going to change the droop.
I take the wheels off my car and set 2 of them on a flat surface and place the buggy on top of the wheels and measure the distance between the 'ground' and the bottom of the threads of the wheel hex head.
I have found 29mm front / 29mm rear makes for a nice neutral car. More rear droop vs front (30 front / 28 rear) is great for tight tracks with a lot of slow 180s.
Less rear droop vs front (28mm front / 30mm rear) takes away some steering and can make the car push and then snap oversteer.
If you use this method you can change shock mounting locations and maintain droop setting you prefer.
Good point, as Ive seen different ways of measuring droop...I found what worked for me to be most accurate and a very noticeable difference, is measuring shock lenght between center of upper and lower mounting bolts and would usually start off at the standard setting and would take in consideration of the type of track and conditions. Usually, more rear droop would give more downtravel so more steering to the front and more front droop would give me more traction to the rears. I also consider the amount of bumps the track has big or small i would either take out or put more droop.