Originally Posted by
Zerodefect
Wrong. Oiled sand and grit is a much better lubricant than dry sand and grit.
Contaminated oil stays in the joins in a whole different way then sand does on its own. While it's in there it acts as a polishing media, and grinds away your stuff. I'd rather have dry parts without lube, then oiled parts.
Originally Posted by
Zerodefect
That stuff just gets flung off and then your stuck with dry metal on metal.
I assume your talking about the Teflon powder & and paraffin compounds. The Teflon powder isn't flung of that easy, but the idea is that it should let what ever abrasive stuff take a bit of it with it and drop away, rather then act as a polishing compound. The paraffin stuff is more work. It's pretty much the same as the floating wax based stuff, you just have to use manual labor to spread it instead of having it dissolved in solvents. It isn't flung anywhere anytime soon. You can still feel the dry slick surface on the internals of the CVD's i tore down after the last summer.
Originally Posted by
Zerodefect
And the wax attacs as much grit as my oils.
I'm sorry, but i have to disagree. Dry wax lubricants doesn't let stuff stick to the surface. Sticky wax like KalGard clear chain kote does, but dry lube doesn't. (However the fella who said he used KalGard clear chain kote said it dries to a dry lube, so they might have swapped formula?) A dry lube coated component dusted with meal, takes a breath blown across it to have it as clean as it was when you put the wax on. And, they don't have to be expensive. (I guess it helps, but my current favorite is sold at about 5bucks for 75ml. It's a junk re-brand OEM bottle of "dry wax chail lube". It's miles better then the White Lightning product i used on the bike chain, but then again that was like 15 years ago...I don't know where i would get a white lightning product today, so i cant compare.) They just have to actually be dry after the solvents are gone.
Originally Posted by
Zerodefect
If they are inside a rubber boot then I pack them full with grease. (The CVD, not the whole boot.)
With a boot, grease is probably the best. It helps seal the boot, and without contaminants, the grease is hard to beat as lube.
Originally Posted by
Zerodefect
Disassemble all CVD's every 2-3 race days for cleaning, repair, pin replacement etc. Dusty conditions are the worst.
I have to admit, i don't race. I just bash. But i have yet to replace the pin in any of my CVD's, on my now 4 year old Protech Enigma. This year it hasn't seen much dirt, i've been plying around with a truck instead, but the last 3 summers it's been taken out for a 4-6 hour bash every weekend, and have been given a bit of ride time in the weeks just to ease the abstinence in wait for the weekends. There is minute wear on the pins, and the cups it is stuck in seams untouched. (The dogbone stick in the other end has been replaced at least 3 times as i can remember) Amount of service... I tear the whole buggy down by the end of the summer every year, and spend the winter going over everything with cleaning tools until it looks brand new, lube everything, stick it back together replacing parts and screws that look sub par.
During the summer season i check up on the internals of the differentials every other week or so, and check for bent axles and play in the joins when the differentials are out. I've bent the left front axle twice, and twisted a rear axle once, (I blame someone else for using to much, to hard loctite on the wheel nut.) kept the good parts from the CVD's as spares, but so far haven't used them.
Probably the only thing we whole heartedly agree on is that dusty conditions are the worst.
B!