Satoch the HSN should be 1 turn below flush, and the LSN should be just slightly out from flush.

TomB you are right the carb is the weak link to the engine, I can tell you that the factory is constantly trying to improve it though and with all things please remember this is a new company, and while not perfect they offer one of the best products on the market.

1) I pressure test every carb that sells thru approved dealers in the U.S. and I can tell you that the latest batches of carbs where not leaking. This is by no means a long term test and a approval that this problem is fixed, but from that gate the engines have been redesigned to seal better at the joint. I will continue to JB weld the seams on my engines just because its easy and a permanent fix, any plastic alumn. carb could leak just as the Go's and I have heard of people using our fix on different carb brands.

2) As far as cosmetic appearance that is a personal preference and I can't say either way, all I can say is I personally prefer function over form and the big cooling head on the Go is one of the best stock cooling heads on the market.

3) The change to the LSN was the taper of the needle, the factory changed the Taper to try and improve bottom end performance. I agree the needles on the Go engines are sensitive and you usually end up adjusting the LSN a blade when its close. This is a matter of acclimation as every carb on the market tunes differently.

4) We have been running the stock head shims in the U.S. for a year, I have never added a head shim to a Go engine. and I usually pull the thin shim out around the 6 gallon mark.

I wouldn't give up on the Go carb yet, Just check yours and check your front bearing, make sure that the engine is sealed up and try a hotter plug.