Originally Posted by
TonysScrews
I also recently picked up a new droop gauge from PowerHobby. It comes with the small wheels you thread on, pair of 10mm blocks and a two-sided gauge. I used to use the Avid circle gauge, but measuring under the arm on my MTC2R I got erratic numbers. I am really liking this new way of measuring the droop. The only issue I can see is if folks post setups and have a different brand of gauge. The PowerHobby and T-Works gauge comes with 18.50mm wheels that thread on. Buddy of mine has the Aerox gauge and he said his wheels measure 18.00mm so when comparing settings they are 0.25mm off from one another.
Originally Posted by
racing_jason
All of those droop gauges measure to the axle centerline, so even though the wheel size is different the value is still represented from the bottom of the chassis to the centerline.
(Please correct me if I'm wrong, but that's how i was told it all worked.)
Bringing back an old quote since we are on this topic ....
So I checked out the PowerHobby droop gauge I bought and the measurements on the block are in line with what they actually measure. Since the blocks to place under the chassis are 10mm, the threaded on wheels would have to measure 20mm in diameter (10mm radius) to offset the blocks under the chassis. Since the PowerHobby wheels actually measure 18.50mm in diameter, that's only 9.25mm radius (bottom of wheel to center of the axle).
This has me doing the following math:
Front Downstop - the car is raised 10mm, droop gauge is at 23.6mm front, but the wheels are 9.25mm to center of axle means the actual measurement technically is 23.6 + 10.0 -.9.25 = 24.35mm
Front Upstop - the car is flat on the setup board, gauge is at 22.2 front, but the wheels are 9.25mm to center of axle means the actual measurement technically is 22.2 + 9.25 = 31.45mm
Is my math right? ,,,, and to add more confusion is the numbers on the Aerox gauge the same but the wheels are a different diameter 18.0 so radius of 9.0mm? ...LOL
