Originally Posted by Raman

@TurboThirdGen

well I’m over half century old fart myself lol. Ok so you have this set up as a speed run car.

My experience with TT02s is that it’s a fairly neutral chassis, not much torque steering either. Usually see that with 2wd cars.

I think you have a lot of things going on that can be causing the pull to left. Perhaps you may even over thinking what’s needed for a speed run car.

On my personal speed run car (hits 60 mph on 2S) the set up is not very far off my other cars.
PB is 47mph on 2s and 63mph on 3s. Haven't topped out on 3s yet.

Front: I have a locked diff. Shock oil 50wt. Medium spring
Rear: gear diff, 5k oil. Shock oil 50wt, medium springs. You need some diff action for speed.
Kit shock oil. Do have the shock oil that came with the Yeah racing shocks, but don't see a number on there. Got some motor oil though!
So when I had an open rear diff with some AW to tighten it up, the rear end spun so much I went through tires way too fast. I would imagine suspension setup also has alot to do here.

Ride height is 5mm in front and 5.2 mm in rear. Since your car doesn’t have droop setting screws, the next way to measure it would be with a ride height gauge.

You place the gauge in front centre, best with bumper removed. Adjust shocks for chassis to touch gauge at 5mm. Lift the chassis with your fingers using shock tower, just enough so that tyres are on about to leave the flat service. Push ride height gauge in until it touches. If it goes in 2mm, that your droop above ride height.

For front, I would set it maybe at 1mm. Rear I would allow 2mm. This will allow good weight transfer.

In the case of your shocks, yes you would put a spacer inside to reduce droop. You will have some trial and error to get the right droop unfortunately.
Will do. I think the big spacers in the front and the smaller spacers in the rear may work, That'll be my first try.

Your shocks, you don’t want 90°. standing shocks up in front will give you more steering. This makes for an edgy speed run car. Standing shocks up in rear is good for straight line but less on cornering. I would go in one hole on each for starters.
Ok, makes sense. Since I'm going with straight line speed, I'll try just moving the front shock positions in a hole to lay them down.

Camber set at -0.1° All around. Toe I would leave it stock at whatever it is, eg 3.0° or 2.5°, it will give you straight line stability. later on tune some of it out for speed.
So, I have no camber adjustment currently, so 0 front and back. Also running 0 toe rear hubs. I broke both the Yeah racing 2.5 and Tamiya 3 degree hubs rather quickly. Thinking about the steel Tamiya adjustable rear plate, but thats for shaft mounted arms, and the YR toe block wont allow use of the rear bumper, which is where my body posts are.

I’ve never used a giro, usually it’s needed for drift, not drag racing? Or is that a new thing. Not sure 🤔
The Futaba GYC441 can be used for forced heading hold(AVCS) or drift mode.

Once you get past 60, you probably need to go heavier on shock oil weight and springs as the forces on suspension increase. Your also going to need to ditch rubber tyres as they won’t hold up past 60. To my knowledge they haven’t made a drag race rubber tyre for 1/10. Your best bet are foams.
I have a set of BSR 30mm foams and a set of BSR 32mm foams