Very happy with the car after our provincial final RC Pro series race. These are a few notes that hopefully some can find helpful:
6) Removing the o-ring under the shock cap eliminated the leaking issue. Additionally I found building the shocks like I do my MP9 shocks provided consistent rebound and no air. I dislike the technique of placing the bladder on the shock body and then shock cap. It reminds me of building TC shocks which I hate!
These are the steps I followed:
- Place bladder in shock cap (they will stay put after initial use as they will have expanded slightly).
- Fill shock body nearly to the top and pump up and down.
- Place in shock pump to remove remaining air bubbles (allowing shocks to sit alone will never rid the shock oil of all air bubbles).
- Top off shock oil until flush with top of body.
- Screw on shock cap while shock shaft extended. Do this slowly and stop when oil starts to come out of the bleeder hole.
- Slowly push the shock shaft all the way into the shock body while wiping away oil that leaks out of the bleeder hole with a shop towel.
- While holding the shock shaft all the way in the shock body, slowly screw the shock cap on until it bottoms out (no tools necessary to do this if you remove the o-ring)
- If the above is done correctly you should have close to zero rebound. If you want less rebound only push the shock shaft in the desired amount and hold in place while screwing on the shock cap.
The above steps work well for me and the key is to perform all steps slowly in order to achieve zero rebound. Also making sure the shock is upright while performing the steps is key.
-Kane