As I mentioned previously WC, please answer what I asked the Center Diff that you purchased and had this experience with on your vehicle. That will allow us that have had success using the product to help you out.
Its interesting though that you finally did test the product and I am surprised you haven't reported on it before. I am assuming your purchase was recent so you probably got the new hardened pins. Was there any unusual wear on those parts?
For those looking for more information how the Center Diff works when properly setup, here is something that Marcus posted a bit ago that may be useful:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12168728-post34095.html
Originally Posted by
MantisWorx
... when a slipper slips you are losing power and acceleration no matter how it is set, which is why some will tell you that it seems like they are losing acceleration when the slipper is set "proper". With any differential it does just that , differentiates between the front/rear and left/right. Since there is no slippage full power is either going to the front, rear or a combination of the two.
Now with that said if your pins/fluid are too light by nature the diff will send power to where it can go to via the easiest path. So as the weight transfers to the rear and the front gets light power will go towards the front. This is why the V1 dif was so badass on loose tracks because when grip is low so much power goes to the front that the rear will not spin barely if at all. when the V1 dif was tried on high grip tracks you would lose acceleration because the rear tires would immediately gain grip forcing all the power to go to the front and the front wheels would "dif out".
So those of you that were on this thread remember when Cam and I were testing and testing and testing to find the right combination of balls and pin location to allow the dif to adjust to these situations. Some see the dif as just a spur gear with holes in it and balls but trust me there is more to it than that.
I honestly believe that an RCShox center dif with all pins will outperform any slipper setup on any track and any grip levels. Here is something to think about, having to run 30k front dif fluid is not optimum. It works but it is just a bandaid because of the slipper. By definition what does thick front dif fluid do?
- push on entry
- on power steering
If you swap out the slipper for a center dif and no other changes what happens? the truck will not turn and you are forced to try and get the rear to rotate via roll center! With a slipper the front and rear are locked so the truck is never really planted, its always "moving" around. With a center dif since the front and rear are seperate you get greater corner speed. Want to test this theory? take a slipper truck, turn the front wheels to lock and drive about 15 circles and you will see that the truck is not in the same place as it was when you started. do the same with a center dif and the truck will be in almost the same identical spot.
It has been proven that the slipper can obviously work but its a compromise. It has also been proven that a center dif can also work, in the end it just depends on preference. But a slipper will NEVER work good on loose conditions where as a center dif will work on both high bite and low grip conditions.
and some info on pin adding:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/12331035-post34467.html
Originally Posted by
MantisWorx
Yes the more pins you add is just like adding heavier center dif fluid. the more pins=more rear drive. On a high bite track you can run 6-8 with no problem all 10 if the track is like velcro! even with 10 the pins the dif acts centrifugally so it actually gets tighter as you accelerate!
Hope thing helps those interested in using a Center Diff in loose and carpet conditions.
Me personally I liked 8 pins on carpet.