Originally Posted by
Cain
Personally, I would start by pulling the center diff completely, then free rolling it to see if you get any clicking.
If there are parts you can install during the center diff assembly that will stay when free rolled, may be worth a look. Basically trying to eliminate possiblities.
As for the pulley up front, I don't recall anyone using that in addition with the center diff.
I tore it back apart and removed the 19t front pulley and reinstalled. No Click now.
I also changed my belt tension settings back to the middle front middle rear. I was running it highest tension setting rear and front based on maifields set up and thought the belt might be too tight.
Originally Posted by
fq06
No over/under drive with the C-Diff. Fighting against each other. Defeats the purpose of having a C-Diff to determine where it wants the power.
Balls stick out from both sides of the thrust bearing, one side more than the other. Side that protrudes more goes in deeper machined washer.
Would not create a click, just thought of that when I thought about drag that you have on a side note.
Click is as Cain said, something else going on. Remove stuff till no click and start putting it back together to find where the click is... after you space out the spur cover.
I went back and pulled it all out and looked at the build post with pics, I got the thrust bearing installed correctly exactly as Cameron Kelloggs build pics on rc shox thread.
Originally Posted by
MantisWorx
Dont run an over or underdrive pulley with the center dif, will create all kinds of handling issue and is not needed. Defeats the purpose.
Make sure that the thrust bearing assembly isnt rubbing against the motor plate or transmission. Other than that there is no difference with or without the center dif as it has nothing to do with how the truck rolls, same shaft.
Also , running Maifields setup with a center dif is not going to be very good, lots of adjustments are needed. start off with my base setup on my thread and go from there.
Thrust bearing is sitting with clearance from the motor plate and transmission. I think the biggest part of the clicking sound was my gear mesh being too tight, I never ran power to the truck was just pushing it on the floor by hand and was hearing the clicking. Now after loosening belt tension and pulling the 19t front pulley I noticed the soft whoosh that my gears make when I roll the truck on the ground is the same timing as the clicking just alot quieter so I think it was the sound of my teeth meshing together when too tight. I remeshed and everything is gravy
I did notice one thing of note. I could only get the grooved washers that the thrust bearing sits between, to install with one washer going first, the other washer would only slide down to about quarter of an inch from end of shaft and would not go down further, (guessing tighter tolerance on inner ring that was tighter than shaft diameter) I checked the shaft and found nothing that would obstruct the grooved washer from seating fully, yet it would not go down all the way. I was able to use the second grooved washer and it slid down and fully seated on plastic spacer then install the thrust bearing then the second grooved washer with the tighter center hole diameter and no issues from there.
Is this the set up you meant?
Originally Posted by
MantisWorx
SC104x4 front spring rates, we are now using these springs in the rear for better jumping and traction!
(2) 3.5lb Green Front Springs
(2) 3.9lb White Front Springs
(2) 4.3lb Blue Front Springs
(2) 4.8lb Yellow Front Springs.
MARCUS WILLIAMS
SC104X4 BASE SETUP MAY 2012
FRONT:
-1* CAMBER
-1* TOE
7K DIF GREASE (KYOSHO 15-5 MIX)
ACKbar -2 SETTING
NO CLICKER/NO OVERDRIVE
OUTSIDE ARM/MIDDLE TOWER
24MM RIDE HEIGHT
5MM ROLLCENTER SHIMS
YELLOW SPRINGS/SWAY BAR
REAR:
-1.5 CAMBER
3-2 BLOCK
STD TOE IN
23MM RIDE HEIGHT
1MM ROLL CENTER SHIMS
CAMBER LINK INSIDE ON HUB
5K DIF GREASE (KYOSHO)
OUTSIDE ARMS/MIDDLE ON TOWER (INSIDE ON ARMS FOR ROUGH TRACKS)
BLUE FRONT (B4.3) SPRINGS/SWAY BAR
(8mm mod testing with 8 on outside and 6 on inside)
SHOCKS
FRONT:
RCshox V2 2 STAGE 1.1/1.2 350cst
BLADDERS WITH BLEED SCREW REMOVED ,ZERO REBOUND
REAR:
RCshox 2 STAGE 1.1/1.2 350cst
BLADDERS WITH BLEED SCREW REMOVED, ZERO REBOUND
POWERTRAIN
RCShox center Dif V2 4 pins
bRUSHLESS HOBBIES 120A ESC
TEKIN PRO4 4000KV 16/60
GENS ACE 6000 SADDLEPACKS
EXOTECH CHASSIS
NO BRACE
STRC TENSION PULLIES
__________________________________________________ _____________________
Originally Posted by
Cain
Mantis starting setup is very good with the center diff as a base. Probably the only thing I would add right away if you are on loose conditions, the 3.5 degrees of toe in is killer with the M2C blocks.
3.5 degrees of toe? m2c blocks? I am on page 1620 of this thread I only have 500 more pages to be caught up so forgive me as I have not heard of the M2C but think I read a post saying its the rear toe block like the 3.2 and 3.3?