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Old 08-15-2012 | 10:28 AM
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lbckevin
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Originally Posted by Xyzzy
Here is a picture of the simple wiring scheme I ended up with using an Orion 4000 WTS battery. The ESC-to-LiPo leads are pretty short! (I wonder if I can charge off of the front bullet connectors and leave the rear connected?)

Unfortunately, my first race day was this last Sunday and the rack seized up on me. I was using the aluminum slider. When I got home I replaced it with the stock slider. The servo is more than powerful enough, I have the servo horn lined up parallel to the rack and I'm even using JRXS Type-R captured ball ends but it froze turning right after a few laps. The servo movement was free of binding, my EPA was set properly and, disconnected from the servo, the slider was totally free.

After playing with moving the servo forwards and back in the mounts and even raising the ballcup that connects the tierod to the slider I think I have the problem figured out. When you are turning left the servo arm PUSHES the tierod LEFT and DOWN. I think the DOWN part causes the binding. When turning right the servo arm PULLS the tierod RIGHT and SLIGHTLY UP.

Anyways, I hope I have the problem fixed. It works fine in the yard and the street but the track is too far away to go to test it out. (Any advice is appreciated!)
Make sure to set your endpoints on your radio. If you allow the servo to go too far, it will lock up on you. You must limit the servo throw to have proper range of use. Its not the alum. rack, it just needs to be adjusted. Also, the stock ball cups are use for a reason....they must be the proper length to have the correct amount of throw to each side.
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