R/C Tech Forums - View Single Post - RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Thread: RC10B4.1 FT/WC
View Single Post
Old 01-07-2012 | 10:26 AM
  #9390  
patiofurniture's Avatar
patiofurniture
Tech Adept
iTrader: (5)
 
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 222
From: Irvine, CA
Default

Originally Posted by Just1More
I don't post here much, usually just read the posts.. But this time i have some questions. Running B4.1FT with 8mm chassis and other goodies it seems i never have enough steering. I have the longest possible front camber link with 2 hole 30* blocks. Running 27.5wt front oil with rcshox 2 stage pistons all around with silver losi springs and 3 limiters with hubs in up position. Rear i went to pink losi springs and 30wt oil(still have too much chassis slap front and rear) with 2 limiters and long wheelbase. For rear toe i'm running 2.5deg block and .5 deg hubs, but have 0deg hubs also(just sloppier). I'm running 17.5 and it seems like i have to jab the brakes to get the rear end to pivot around, otherwise i have to turn full lock and wait for the front tires to grab traction then ease out of the corner or else i will push into the opposite pipe. I'm running gold compound barcodes, proline closed cell up front and AKA foam in rear. I was running orange front and yellow rear springs, went to silver front first for a while then pink rear. Rear camber link is inside on tower and inside holes on B block on the hub. Any suggestions? it's just twitchy as hell, when i get nervous in the races the car just falls apart. Twitchy lining up for the jumps and shooting for the apex of the corner yet full lock on the sweeper and the back end will kick out a little too much since the pink rear spring. BTW i'm running a 1258 savox, 1/2oz under the horn and ballast weight in the rear along with 1/2oz next to the RX, maybe i should go back to yellow rear spring and add more weight up front? Battery weighs 315g. Track is medium traction indoor semi technical. Thanks guys any suggestions are welcome as i'll read this tomorrow at the track and try things accordingly
You have no mention of the number of inner ball stud washers front and rear. I would make sure that you at least either have one or no ball stud washers in the rear and on or two in the front. If you want the car to turn in more and rotate go with fewer washers in the rear. If you want the feeling of more traction at the expense of mid-exit steering ad a washer in the rear. In the front if you want more initial turn in go with fewer washers, but for more exit steering add one. Typically adjusting the rear washer height is a little more sensitive of an adjustment than the the front.

Also I would bet that you car feels so twitchy because your springs are too stiff front and rear. Try at least going to one stage softer with 30wt fr and 27wt rear with #2 pistons in front and #3 piston in the rear with standard limiters. You shouldn't have any chassis slap unless you are either flat landing, or unevenly landing on the downside.
patiofurniture is offline