used TLR 22 3.0 questions
#1
used TLR 22 3.0 questions
Planning to get back into the hobby, and recently purchased a used TLR 22 3.0 buggy. It appears to be in good condition and pretty stock, with the exception of the installed electronics.
Planning to run on an indoor clay/high bite track and could use some suggestions on "required" hop-ups, toolbox necessities, and just general advice for getting ready to put this thing on the track.
Thanks!
Planning to run on an indoor clay/high bite track and could use some suggestions on "required" hop-ups, toolbox necessities, and just general advice for getting ready to put this thing on the track.
Thanks!
#2
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
Planning to get back into the hobby, and recently purchased a used TLR 22 3.0 buggy. It appears to be in good condition and pretty stock, with the exception of the installed electronics.
Planning to run on an indoor clay/high bite track and could use some suggestions on "required" hop-ups, toolbox necessities, and just general advice for getting ready to put this thing on the track.
Thanks!
Planning to run on an indoor clay/high bite track and could use some suggestions on "required" hop-ups, toolbox necessities, and just general advice for getting ready to put this thing on the track.
Thanks!
As for tools, the Factory Team hex driver set is a seriously convenient set of tools to have if you own an electric driver. It makes wrenching a breeze. But it's also a good idea to have a set of dedicated hex drivers from MIP for more precision driving. You'll also want shock shaft pliers, needle nose pliers, surface cutters, a nice wheel nut driver, a set of metric nut drivers (MIP has a new nut driver line that is supposed to be fantastic), a dremel with a cutoff wheel and a sanding cylinder, miscellaneous brushes for applying lube and cleaning off loose dirt, mini infrared temperature gun, and ball cup pliers. That's just off the top of my head.
#3
I can't imagine you'd need to upgrade much on the 22 except perhaps getting an aluminum servo horn and aluminum steering rack. Otherwise it comes pretty well decked out from the factory.
As for tools, the Factory Team hex driver set is a seriously convenient set of tools to have if you own an electric driver. It makes wrenching a breeze. But it's also a good idea to have a set of dedicated hex drivers from MIP for more precision driving. You'll also want shock shaft pliers, needle nose pliers, surface cutters, a nice wheel nut driver, a set of metric nut drivers (MIP has a new nut driver line that is supposed to be fantastic), a dremel with a cutoff wheel and a sanding cylinder, miscellaneous brushes for applying lube and cleaning off loose dirt, mini infrared temperature gun, and ball cup pliers. That's just off the top of my head.
As for tools, the Factory Team hex driver set is a seriously convenient set of tools to have if you own an electric driver. It makes wrenching a breeze. But it's also a good idea to have a set of dedicated hex drivers from MIP for more precision driving. You'll also want shock shaft pliers, needle nose pliers, surface cutters, a nice wheel nut driver, a set of metric nut drivers (MIP has a new nut driver line that is supposed to be fantastic), a dremel with a cutoff wheel and a sanding cylinder, miscellaneous brushes for applying lube and cleaning off loose dirt, mini infrared temperature gun, and ball cup pliers. That's just off the top of my head.
Any suggestions for what i should tear down and rebuild before running it?
#4
Tech Elite
iTrader: (39)
You also might want to change the shock oil and check the o-rings in the shock bodies to make sure they aren't torn up. And when you reassemble the shock, use Associated Green Slime generously on the o-rings. It helps prevent leaks and allows the shaft to move freely.
Then it'd be worthwhile to check the steering assembly. Just make sure there isn't any excessive slop from worn out parts, or binding. If it doesn't swing side to side freely then something needs work.
#5
Tech Elite
iTrader: (57)
Find out from the previous owner what the shape of it was. Did you buy it locally or here on the forums? It's hard to advise with used gear as it can be all over the board. Take it to the track and see if you can find someone else with a 22 3.0 that can give it a look over. If you can post pics, it'd help too.
#6
The TLR lay down is very popular for high byte tracks. TLR338004
#7
perfect - that's the kind of advice i was looking for. thanks!
ebay - looks like it's in good shape via pics. when i get the buggy (supposed to be here monday, i'll post some pics). thanks!
holy moly - that's half the price i paid for the RTR setup.
Well it's always good to rebuild the diff if it is used. I'm not very familiar with ball diffs though. I would reference the manual to see how it goes together but you want to make sure the balls and bearings are in good shape, then you just need Ball diff grease and reassemble it. I believe there is a thread dedicated to building Ball diffs in one of the sub-forums here. I think in Electric off-road. Would be worth a read.
You also might want to change the shock oil and check the o-rings in the shock bodies to make sure they aren't torn up. And when you reassemble the shock, use Associated Green Slime generously on the o-rings. It helps prevent leaks and allows the shaft to move freely.
Then it'd be worthwhile to check the steering assembly. Just make sure there isn't any excessive slop from worn out parts, or binding. If it doesn't swing side to side freely then something needs work.
You also might want to change the shock oil and check the o-rings in the shock bodies to make sure they aren't torn up. And when you reassemble the shock, use Associated Green Slime generously on the o-rings. It helps prevent leaks and allows the shaft to move freely.
Then it'd be worthwhile to check the steering assembly. Just make sure there isn't any excessive slop from worn out parts, or binding. If it doesn't swing side to side freely then something needs work.
Find out from the previous owner what the shape of it was. Did you buy it locally or here on the forums? It's hard to advise with used gear as it can be all over the board. Take it to the track and see if you can find someone else with a 22 3.0 that can give it a look over. If you can post pics, it'd help too.
#8
I got two 22-4s and a 22 when getting back into it, and by far the most important thing was getting the right tires for the track. All other tuning concerns are secondary; seriously the first 22-4 I got I spent a ton going through it with a fine toothed comb, rebuilding diffs, replacing bearings, eliminating slop. The second one I did absolutely nothing but put the same tires on it and despite being a little crunchier it's just as fast and easy to drive.
The best toolbox necessity I purchased for those cars was a hitachi electric screwdriver with an MIP 1.5,2.0,2.5mm driver set. The clutch is perfect for not overtightening screws and the electric part of it seriously eliminates the tedium of teardown. Other than that: a turnbuckle wrench, the losi diff tool, but those are just nice to have.
The best toolbox necessity I purchased for those cars was a hitachi electric screwdriver with an MIP 1.5,2.0,2.5mm driver set. The clutch is perfect for not overtightening screws and the electric part of it seriously eliminates the tedium of teardown. Other than that: a turnbuckle wrench, the losi diff tool, but those are just nice to have.