Dean's connectors offer less resistance and thus are still the connector of choice.

No confusion there,thanks.I still don't know what the sensor & sensorless is all about.Whats being sensored.

my aforementioned issue was the sensor wire! back in business!

I am no expert which you can see from the OP, but from my limited understanding, sensored has an extra wire:

amazon.com/Atomik-RC-Brushless-Motor-Sensor/dp/B00I03LAPI (sry still cant post direct links)

btwn the ESC and motor, that "monitors" the armature in the can, which improves low RPM efficiency and prevents low RPM cogging. the technology is apparently getting better, but there were talks i read about that a sensored motor *could* be less effiecient, but *could* also provide improved braking?

sensorless doesnt have this wire, the powerband isnt as smooth but is supposedly more efficient?

someone PLEASE correct me if I am wrong with any of the above, but that is my understanding.

but having limited time running and experiencing both sensored and sensorless, the only *REALLY* noticeable difference to me was the powerband when the car is moving very slowly (think 20% throttle and less) - it was much smoother with the sensored.

Sensored/sensorless:

Brushless motors use 3 electromagnets in the stator. In order to turn the rotor, they have to be powered in a certain pattern/speed, so that the magnetic fields push/pull the rotor just right.

A sensorless system has no information about the position of the rotor to the electromagnets at 0 RPM, so the ESC cannot send the correct pattern to the motor, but uses a generic one. As RPM builds up, a kind of feedback signal builds up in the motor wires that the ESC can "read", so with higher RPM it works better and better and the pattern gets more and more efficient.

Sensored motors have hall effect sensors that know the exact position of the rotor all the time and use an extra cable to pass that information to the ESC, that then can send the correct power pattern regardless of RPM - even from standing still.

That's a shame, I have a B5m that I am putting up for sale this week after doing the M conversion and not even running a lap with it. I have no place to run it. My suggestion if you are running it on dirt, don't go much faster than a 13.5 turn motor.

I put this car on carpet with a 7.5 turn (it was still a B5 not B5m) and was moving at about 1/4 speed and decided to see what would happen if I hit it hard. 1/4 speed and the car went over backwards and very quickly. Point is with these cars you can easily overpower them. But slipper clutch adjustment is very important unless you want to show off and do donuts.

sorry to say the standard for stadium trucks around me offroad carpet/clay/dirt// is 10,5 check with what track you will run on and run what the class allows.

Thanks guys.I learned,in the last two days, more than I learned in the first three months of my brushed & ni-cad days.