Hutobega

You are super helpful thank you. So all those parts work together correct? that might be a stupid question I don't know whether or not certain servos work with certain motors and esc lmao.. VERY NEW to this haha. last thing I didn't realize I need is a "pinion" 48 pitch what is that? And Also noticing the website says I need a 2 way transmitter and receiver? So would the controller you suggested not work or would it be just fine? Thanks in advance!

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Thanks, I do what I can to help

All the parts I listed will work together, yes. There are rules as to what works together and what doesn't, but it'd be a LOT of writing to cover all. So let me try to summarize.

* ESCs have input voltage ratings, which will tell you if you can/should run them on 1S, 2S, 3S, 4S lipos, etc. You don't want to give an ESC more volts than it can handle. Most 10th scale ESCs are meant to be used with 2S lipos, like the Justock I recommended, or most other ones you'll see people running in their 10th scale buggies.

* Most ESCs also have output voltage that is sent through the plug that goes into the receiver. This power the receiver and anything else connected to it. Those plugs you plug in have 3 wires; positive, negative and signal. So, when you plug the ESC into the receiver and then plug the servo into the receiver, the ESC is powering the servo through the receiver. You want to look at the ESC's "BEC" rating (Battery Elimination Circuit), usually it'll be something like 6 volts / 3 amps, or maybe 6 volts / 2amps, etc. If your ESC doesn't come with a BEC, you'll need an external BEC, which is usually pretty cheap and easy to wire up. But most racing ESCs have built-in BECs.

* Some servos, mainly the Savox brand, are a little power hungry. If your ESC has a weak BEC it may not provide the servo with enough power. The receiver will then "brown out" when you steer, which may cause you to lose signal to your radio. One way to solve this is to plug in a "glitch buster" into an empty receiver slot, which is basically a big capacitor which lets the hungry servos have the power they need. You usually don't need it, but it's an option. Other servos, like Futaba, Hitec, etc. tend to be less power hungry, but by no means let this stop you from buying a Savox. I've never had a brownout and I never ran a glitch buster. Most brownout reports come from people using Savox servos with Spectrum receivers.

* Most ESCs, servos and receivers use the same standard plug these days, so they easily connect together. It's the same plug that your transponder will use if you go racing and decide to buy one. These are the 3-ping plugs, standard flat black ones.

* You most likely want an ESC that can do sensored mode. You plug a sensor cable between a sensored motor and the ESC, which lets the ESC know exactly what RPM the motor is turning at. This allows for smooth throttle and precise control.

* ESCs are also rated for specific motor "turns", this is usually for sensored motors. All that means is that the ESC can't handle motors below a certain turn count. So, say, an ESC may be rated "up to 8 turn motors", which means you can run 21.5, 17.5, 10.5 with no problem, all the way down to 8 turns. But if you try to run, say, a 6.5 turn motor, things could go bad quickly. So, keep an eye on the turn limit when selecting an ESC, based on the motor you decide to buy.

* A pinion is the gear that is attached to your motor's rotor, a spur is the gear that is attached to the car's transmission/driveline and then meshes with the spur. Gears come in different pitches, the most common ones are 32p, 48p, and 64 pitch. 32p is used for big/heavy cars and bashing, as it's very course with large teeth. 48p is the most common pitch for offroad racing, as the teeth are smaller and thus allow you to easily select a good gear ratio, yet big enough to not get wrecked during jumps/landings and general dirt use. 64p is the finest, with very small teeth, and used mostly for onroad racing. I would say you should stick with 48p gears for your B5M.

I hope this helps!

Hutobega

I feel smarter...hahah so Any 48 pitch? I didn't know if shape made a difference. looks like many to chose from.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

I'm not sure what you mean by shape. Any 48 pitch pinion should work as long as it has the proper number of teeth for your motor and desired gear ratio, and the proper hole diameter to fit the motor shaft size. Try Robinson Racing pinions.

Hutobega

Okay so i'll have to figure that stuff out number of teeth I will need and gear ratios.

Hutobega

Thank you all for the help it's amazing! I am getting closer to going for it and ordering all my parts.
Now is there any advantage to having matching parts? or is that more an aesthetics thing..
Also question... what d motor turns do? more turns faster less turns more power? or torque?

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

When you say matching, do you mean brand? Color? In general no, there is no real difference and/or advantage. For instance, and LRP ESC with a RevTech motor works just as well as a Tekin ESC with a Reedy Sonic motor. I mean, there are differences to the feel/performance based on each brand, but not with how you match them up. In the end it's all just connected by current.

In brushless motors, turns are literally the number of turns the copper wire is wound around the armature. Less turns (smaller number) means higher top RPM but also lower torque. So, for instance, a 6.5T motor is a bullet compared to a 25.5T motor, but the 25.5T has more torque.

For bashing, you probably want between 17.5T and 10.5T, just keep in mind that at 10.5T your B5M is going to be a rocket. Even a 17.5 is going to be a challenge at first. Also remember to be looking at 540-sized motors, NOT 550 or anything else.

Hutobega

Awesome got it that helps a ton! and yeah I'm thinking I'll stick with the 17.5 but was thinking 13.5 maybe but I'll decide when the time comes. I'll try in a nice wide open area first to learn the speed and turning heh.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

No problem. Make sure that whatever motor you choose, you find a reasonable gearing range for it. Gearing is usually specified with Final Drive Ratio. This is a number that basically says how many times a wheel will fully turn for every turn the motor makes. Since your transmission has gears in it, it's not just the spur divided by the pinion. You have to multiply by the transmission ratio. But when people talk about FDR, they're talking about that final number.

So, when you get a 17.5, or 13.5, or whatever, do some searching around to find a good FDR range for a B5M with that motor wind. Then, buy a few pinions that will let you start towards the top of that range and work your way down. So, let's say (this is not the real FDR you want, just example) they tell you the FDR range is 3.0 to 4.0. I'd start at 4.0, then see how hot the motor gets. If it's still running cool, go to 3.8.. then 3.6... then 3.4 (approximate numbers), etc. The larger the number the less work the motor has to do (to a point, too big a number and the motor will be spinning too fast too often). So start on the larger/safer end of the range and work toward the smaller/hotter end until you get the speed and torque behavior you want.

As a rule of thumb, don't let your motor get over 150 degrees F. If you can keep it in the 120-130 range that's even better.

Hutobega

You are amazing thank you for spending time to teach me so much! I wont let you down haha. as soon as i get rolling...literally I will post some pics or something heh.

metalnut

iTrader: (36)

Glad to be of help A few guys on here (and in our local club) spent the time with me, so I'm just paying it forward. You'll be helping new guys in no time

Hutobega

AND after all this wonderful information because of price and I am a newbie BUT I want to get started a little quicker......how do you feel about the specs on the RC10b4? I looked it up and it's the same style of the RC10b5m but lower grade by far I assume...would it be a good start for someone like me? it comes assembled but I would think taking it apart and putting it back together could help me learn a lot? UGH I hate to do this but its overall better for my price range haha. and I could easily upgrade parts eventually or would it not be worth upgrading but buying new later on? just exploring my options. I want to stick with team associated I think. I like their cars, but by all means if there is really a better bang for my buck let me know! thanks again haha

locked

iTrader: (1)

Simply because it's a rear motor car, the b4 will probably be a little easier to drive if you are just playing around in a park. The mid motor b5m is meant for high grip tracks, and would be quite a handful in lower grip conditions.

I assume the b4 you are referring to is an RTR, like this. Usually RTR electronics are pretty crappy, but it would get you started cheap. The problem is if you like it and/or want to race it, you'll quickly replace everything and spend more than if you just bought some better electronics to begin with.

It is a good idea to tear apart and rebuild any factory assembled car. With very few exceptions, they are not built well. I would recommend getting a kit and each part that you really want. You'll understand the car better and will feel more attached to it. Completing your first build and driving it for the first time is a cool feeling. You won't likely get that kind of attachment to an RTR

I'm not going to try to talk you out of what you want to buy. When I started in the hobby, my choices were not recommended by anyone(I started by racing 13.5 boosted touring car, instead of a slower class), but nothing was going to stop me from doing what I wanted.

Personally, I cant say I'm a fan of Team Associated. Their quality control is lacking. Parts are dirt cheap though.

In the end, you need to decide for yourself what you really want. It might be better to save up a little and get the stuff that you truly have your heart set on. You'll probably enjoy it more.

Hutobega

Thanks for the suggestions!