$30 iron, 25 years old, on it's 4th $8 tip. Does servo wires as well as batteries. Depending on my skill level that day of course. I'm sure those "stations" are nice but if you brain isn't in soldering mode they won't help much. And they are so big, the last thing I want is to haul more than I really need.

Where are you getting tips? I have an old Ungar that I would really like to resurrect. Even being a station it's much smaller, lighter and easier to pack as you mention than the usual modern ones. Went for years on the original tip. May need a heating element too though.

Dave, Weller sells them now, as they bought Ungar several years ago. I believe you're looking for a PL133 tip, if my memory doesn't fail me(in fact, I think mine's due for a new tip soon, too)...

I heard about Weller picking them up, but didn't think they stocked old Ungar parts. Certainly worth checking out. Much appreciated Bob.

Man i miss my Ungar Super race station, bought the Weller WLC100, almost the same iron
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produc...9-9FE5A0DAEB39
as low as 100 deg. F and Max 800, so it does the little jobs very well

I picked up the TrakPower TK-950 awhile back from Tower as an open box. I think it was around $45. It was brand new, did not even have the stickers on it, tips never used. I have only used it a handful of times so far, but am very pleases with the product.

As for your issues with the TK60, sorry you are having a problem. I have heard that TrakPower stands behind their product and am sure they would take care of you. Tower I am sure would take care of you as well, I have had good customer service after having issues in the past before, and they were quick to resolve them.

2 options, get credit from tower, or replacement from either. would not hurt to have a decent portable just to keep in your pit bag.

Either way, I would notify TrakPower and let them know the issue. One way a company can fix issues with their product is feedback, both positive and negative. If it is a known issue they may have resolved it with new stock.

I would personally stick to the bigger names of soldering stations. hakko weller etc just because you can buy tips for them just about anywhere.

I bought a weller wlc 100 from sears when they had it on sale for $40. I think they're usually $50.
http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-.../dp/B000AS28UC

I also tried one of those special tip cleaners that look like steel wool, save your money and time. the sponge works 10Xs better

if you want your tips to last forever and keep getting hot fast be sure to tin your tip when you're done. tinning is basically covering it with solder and letting it cool with it on the tip.

tinning is also what you should do to all the parts before you try to solder them together. and your tip. it makes it hotter and transmits it's heat to the parts faster.

this guy has a great 2 part video how to properly solder

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FPD1AIov6tY

@freaksofature, I recently observed that too because of the uncanny resemblance in both the systems. I’m currently using a hakko 936 as well which is performing amazingly well. I’d suggest that whoever tries to buy a soldering iron shouldn’t worry that much about cost and make sure that the materials used in manufacturing are up to the task. The quality of these materials obviously is directly related to the cost of the soldering iron. Since a soldering iron is the most used tool in most labs, it has its own level of significance.

So in a related question and being new, what type of solder do you use for RC electronics? I noticed there were quite a few choices and wanted to get an idea of what everyone uses.

Here is what you should be using.

Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37

yup, basic rosin core, get some flux while your'e at it, and clean/tin clean/tin constantly.

seems redundant to use rosin core solder and flux paste. I've never needed to use flux on anything with rosin core solder before. (i'm no expert on soldering)
leaded 60/40 or silver solder are both fine. I'm sure you have a radio shack near you. if you do their solder is very good.

tin every part you plan to solder together even the wires. that's the secret. tinning is melting solder to the parts before they're soldered together. you'll have joints that look like a pro did them.

Flux isn't always redundant. I recommend you try it on a new solder job. Doesn't take very much, use in moderation. It helps cut through surface oxidation and junk. Transfers heat for a faster flow/quicker joint, for less heat exposure to circuit boards etc. And helps direct the solder flow. Be sure to get a low activity type I think it is.

I have some but I never noticed anything working better so I never bother to use it. maybe it's because their solders are very good. that's what I always use. I've had the same roll for years.

it's really a shame they're going to start closing stores.

Thanks for the answers everyone, I will pick up some and thanks again for the tinning recommendation, I hadn't heard of that

I'll try some test jobs on some scrap wires before I do anything else, practice makes perfect.