Engine stalls at full throttle.
05-28-2005, 03:46 AM
#1
Engine stalls at full throttle.
Car - Team Associated NTC3 RTR+
I own this car for about 2 months now, after break-in period, i send the car to my lhs for second time tuning.
problem now is, i cant go full throttle, the lhs guy told me i should not go all the way full throttle just after engine starts.
so i did like what he told me, doing slow runs in rounds and slowly pull the trigger, but just as im about to pull all the way up from half throttle, the car suddenly stalls, i get so used to it tht when i hear the car about to stall, i release the throttle.
from what i have learn from the manual given, if the engine stalls at full throttle it means either the low speed mixture is too lean or the high speed is too rich, but im guessing everything is fine cos the lhs guy told me its tuned properly and shud run allright.
im getting pissed everytime i run the car, and even now i have to make my way to the lhs again, which is 2 bus drive from my place.
help me guys.
I own this car for about 2 months now, after break-in period, i send the car to my lhs for second time tuning.
problem now is, i cant go full throttle, the lhs guy told me i should not go all the way full throttle just after engine starts.
so i did like what he told me, doing slow runs in rounds and slowly pull the trigger, but just as im about to pull all the way up from half throttle, the car suddenly stalls, i get so used to it tht when i hear the car about to stall, i release the throttle.
from what i have learn from the manual given, if the engine stalls at full throttle it means either the low speed mixture is too lean or the high speed is too rich, but im guessing everything is fine cos the lhs guy told me its tuned properly and shud run allright.
im getting pissed everytime i run the car, and even now i have to make my way to the lhs again, which is 2 bus drive from my place.
help me guys.
05-28-2005, 06:02 AM
#2
So when you gun the throttle it likes to stall? Its seems to me that it is too lean so adjust the High speed needle out in 1/8 turns (anti clockwise)
Also i suggest you buy a new glow plug.After break in glow plugs are usually fouled up from the rich settings from break in
Also i suggest you buy a new glow plug.After break in glow plugs are usually fouled up from the rich settings from break in
05-28-2005, 07:16 AM
#3
teamduratrax,
i have been doing that ever since i realise the problem but the problem still persist, i even lean the high speed needle cos i thought it might help.
do you reckon its just how i run the car that result it to stall? i have been very gentle towards the car but still it happens.
i have been doing that ever since i realise the problem but the problem still persist, i even lean the high speed needle cos i thought it might help.
do you reckon its just how i run the car that result it to stall? i have been very gentle towards the car but still it happens.
05-28-2005, 10:04 AM
#4
Tech Adept
When you start the engine and remove the glow start, is there any change at all in the sound of the engine? That is, when you remove the glow start does the RPM drop a little? If so, definately change the glow plug.
If not, you're probably running too lean. If you're too rich it will flame out right from idle when you try to throttle. Since you can get to mid before it dies, you're probably starving the engine.
Also I wouldn't keep going to the LHS for tuning issues. They tuned it yesterday but today the humidity, air temp, or barometric pressure is different, it's going to require a different neelde setting. Every time you run, get it started, let it fully come up to running temp (this is going to take almost five minutes,) and begin enriching the high speed needle almost until it stalls. Blip the throttle a little and begin leaning the high speed needle in no more than 1/8 turn increments, giving it 30 seconds between each tweak to settle in to the new setting. When the performance starts to return, put it on the track and see what it does.
Take the time to learn to tune and you won't be back to the LHS every day and you won't be pissed every time you run.
If not, you're probably running too lean. If you're too rich it will flame out right from idle when you try to throttle. Since you can get to mid before it dies, you're probably starving the engine.
Also I wouldn't keep going to the LHS for tuning issues. They tuned it yesterday but today the humidity, air temp, or barometric pressure is different, it's going to require a different neelde setting. Every time you run, get it started, let it fully come up to running temp (this is going to take almost five minutes,) and begin enriching the high speed needle almost until it stalls. Blip the throttle a little and begin leaning the high speed needle in no more than 1/8 turn increments, giving it 30 seconds between each tweak to settle in to the new setting. When the performance starts to return, put it on the track and see what it does.
Take the time to learn to tune and you won't be back to the LHS every day and you won't be pissed every time you run.
05-28-2005, 09:14 PM
#5
Definetely get a new glow plug.I think that will fix your problem.
Does engine idle well or not?
Does engine idle well or not?
05-29-2005, 08:30 PM
#6
fastfad,If you do not own a temperature gun or even if you do 
,take a paper towel or something that you can put a few drops of water on the engine cooling head, do this within the first few minutes to prevent any damage to your engine from overheating 
.Put a few drops on the head, if the water sizzles and evaporates instantly the engine is to lean 
you should richen the high speed needle counterclockwise immediately 
at least 1/4 turn,if it takes a few seconds or doesnt go away at all,try running the car and try the water again if you notice the stalling about to happen.It should take about 6-8 seconds for the water to evaporate.Even longer if the car has good power with a ritcher setting When you get the high speed needle set try to do a pinch test to find out how close the low speed needle is.With the car at operating temp,pinch the fuel line close to the carb w/ your fingers or pliers and hold it closed,if the engine dies instantly the needle is to lean,ritchen the mixture couterclockwise 1/8-1/4 turn,blip the throttle a few times and repeat.If the engine takes a 3-5 seconds to die the mixture is close,more time than that and the mixture is to rich 
Also if the body that your running on your car doesnt have a hole cut in the windshield preferably on the same side as the engine,that can cause major problems w/heat Hope this info helps.Also if the engine has been running hot the glow plug is probably toast 
And always tune the car with the body on.
,take a paper towel or something that you can put a few drops of water on the engine cooling head, do this within the first few minutes to prevent any damage to your engine from overheating .Put a few drops on the head, if the water sizzles and evaporates instantly the engine is to lean you should richen the high speed needle counterclockwise immediately at least 1/4 turn,if it takes a few seconds or doesnt go away at all,try running the car and try the water again if you notice the stalling about to happen.It should take about 6-8 seconds for the water to evaporate.Even longer if the car has good power with a ritcher setting When you get the high speed needle set try to do a pinch test to find out how close the low speed needle is.With the car at operating temp,pinch the fuel line close to the carb w/ your fingers or pliers and hold it closed,if the engine dies instantly the needle is to lean,ritchen the mixture couterclockwise 1/8-1/4 turn,blip the throttle a few times and repeat.If the engine takes a 3-5 seconds to die the mixture is close,more time than that and the mixture is to rich Also if the body that your running on your car doesnt have a hole cut in the windshield preferably on the same side as the engine,that can cause major problems w/heat Hope this info helps.Also if the engine has been running hot the glow plug is probably toast And always tune the car with the body on.
12-30-2012, 09:44 PM
#7
Tech Rookie
Same thing
The same thing happens to be. I go WOT and slow down and my truck won't start for like 10 minutes HELP!
12-31-2012, 05:07 PM
#9
A newbie quick test is the SPIT test, a little spit on the head should just evaproate not SIZZLE if you engine SIZZLE the spit.. you are too lean on the HSN needle. Your engine is probably too hot to start again and the fuel is vaporising in the carby.
Exceprt from http://www.beachmumsracing.org.au/fyi/santalovesnitro/
Getting to the bottom of things
Without doubt, the most difficult procedure is to find a good bottom tuning. The top needle is dead simple, the bottom is where most engine need care. An engine is ideally cooled when off throttle, it needs to be rich enough to lubricate the bearings and cool. The key here is to find a good starting point.
First richen the top needle as this has less to do with an engine’s idle tune, yet an overly lean top can affect the idle tuning. Get the manufacturer’s recommended IDLE setting and set the idle screw to open the air intake gap as specified. Try starting your engine. If it immediately become erratic and high, richening the bottom needle and check that the servos and linkages are all set to properly close the idle at zero throttle.
Try starting it again and remember that we have a rich top needle so be very gentle with your throttle, use very small amounts of throttle to lift the idle up and allow it to drop.Opening the throttle too far with a rich top needle will flood the engine. If the engine stalls, one of my key observations is that when you try and start it without throttle, if it starts first time then there’s fuel still in your crank case and it’s likely to be richer than it is lean.
Start your engine again and allow it to richen without throttle, this usually takes a few second and often stalls the engine. Dont fear, a race tuned engine wont sit and PURR it will usually richen, hence why your see many racers constantly revving their engines to clear the crank. As you gentle blip the throttle the engine should respond quickly and return to idle, if the engine idle remains high or low and ( adjust your top needle slightly if it’s flooding ) tune the bottom needle to give you a throttle response and return to idle.
Take onto track and begin to tune your top needle and see below (faux idle) for the final adjustments.
Faux Idle – High Idle off straights
As a RC nitro 2 stroke motor does not have a dedicated intake manifold, fuel builds up in the crank case when idling for a while. As the engine needs this fuel to lubricate and cool it is natural for this to happen. This makes it very difficult to tune an engine on a bench, ideally engine tuning should be performed on track, in race trim with shell on and after a few good laps to allow the engine to warm up.
A faux idle is simply when the idle is set too high and the bottom mixture is rich and lowers the RPM at idle due to flooding of the crank case. This can be easily determined by richening the top needle (slightly) to ensure it it’s safe to diagnose and allowing the engine to lean out along a long straight. If the idle remains high or you need to blip the throttle to ower it, then too much air is entering the carby and it will give you push into corners.
By leaning the bottom needle and lowering the idle, this can be resolved. The engine should returning to a good idle almost instantly the moment you come off the throttle after a long straight. Please be aware that we are referring to a high idle, which differs from a lean bottom. Too lean on the bottom needle and it’s likely your engine will begin to 4 stroke (an erratic high RPM) in which case you must richen the bottom and increase your idle. A faux idle is often associated with poor bottom end performance and it should also be pointed out, that one should use their clutch to improve take off, not the engine’s bottom end tuning alone.
Without doubt, the most difficult procedure is to find a good bottom tuning. The top needle is dead simple, the bottom is where most engine need care. An engine is ideally cooled when off throttle, it needs to be rich enough to lubricate the bearings and cool. The key here is to find a good starting point.
First richen the top needle as this has less to do with an engine’s idle tune, yet an overly lean top can affect the idle tuning. Get the manufacturer’s recommended IDLE setting and set the idle screw to open the air intake gap as specified. Try starting your engine. If it immediately become erratic and high, richening the bottom needle and check that the servos and linkages are all set to properly close the idle at zero throttle.
Try starting it again and remember that we have a rich top needle so be very gentle with your throttle, use very small amounts of throttle to lift the idle up and allow it to drop.Opening the throttle too far with a rich top needle will flood the engine. If the engine stalls, one of my key observations is that when you try and start it without throttle, if it starts first time then there’s fuel still in your crank case and it’s likely to be richer than it is lean.
Start your engine again and allow it to richen without throttle, this usually takes a few second and often stalls the engine. Dont fear, a race tuned engine wont sit and PURR it will usually richen, hence why your see many racers constantly revving their engines to clear the crank. As you gentle blip the throttle the engine should respond quickly and return to idle, if the engine idle remains high or low and ( adjust your top needle slightly if it’s flooding ) tune the bottom needle to give you a throttle response and return to idle.
Take onto track and begin to tune your top needle and see below (faux idle) for the final adjustments.
Faux Idle – High Idle off straights
As a RC nitro 2 stroke motor does not have a dedicated intake manifold, fuel builds up in the crank case when idling for a while. As the engine needs this fuel to lubricate and cool it is natural for this to happen. This makes it very difficult to tune an engine on a bench, ideally engine tuning should be performed on track, in race trim with shell on and after a few good laps to allow the engine to warm up.
A faux idle is simply when the idle is set too high and the bottom mixture is rich and lowers the RPM at idle due to flooding of the crank case. This can be easily determined by richening the top needle (slightly) to ensure it it’s safe to diagnose and allowing the engine to lean out along a long straight. If the idle remains high or you need to blip the throttle to ower it, then too much air is entering the carby and it will give you push into corners.
By leaning the bottom needle and lowering the idle, this can be resolved. The engine should returning to a good idle almost instantly the moment you come off the throttle after a long straight. Please be aware that we are referring to a high idle, which differs from a lean bottom. Too lean on the bottom needle and it’s likely your engine will begin to 4 stroke (an erratic high RPM) in which case you must richen the bottom and increase your idle. A faux idle is often associated with poor bottom end performance and it should also be pointed out, that one should use their clutch to improve take off, not the engine’s bottom end tuning alone.
06-05-2018, 03:19 PM
#10
Tech Rookie
change the spark plug
I own this car for about 2 months now, after break-in period, i send the car to my lhs for second time tuning.
problem now is, i cant go full throttle, the lhs guy told me i should not go all the way full throttle just after engine starts.
so i did like what he told me, doing slow runs in rounds and slowly pull the trigger, but just as im about to pull all the way up from half throttle, the car suddenly stalls, i get so used to it tht when i hear the car about to stall, i release the throttle.
from what i have learn from the manual given, if the engine stalls at full throttle it means either the low speed mixture is too lean or the high speed is too rich, but im guessing everything is fine cos the lhs guy told me its tuned properly and shud run allright.
im getting pissed everytime i run the car, and even now i have to make my way to the lhs again, which is 2 bus drive from my place.
help me guys.
problem now is, i cant go full throttle, the lhs guy told me i should not go all the way full throttle just after engine starts.
so i did like what he told me, doing slow runs in rounds and slowly pull the trigger, but just as im about to pull all the way up from half throttle, the car suddenly stalls, i get so used to it tht when i hear the car about to stall, i release the throttle.
from what i have learn from the manual given, if the engine stalls at full throttle it means either the low speed mixture is too lean or the high speed is too rich, but im guessing everything is fine cos the lhs guy told me its tuned properly and shud run allright.
im getting pissed everytime i run the car, and even now i have to make my way to the lhs again, which is 2 bus drive from my place.
help me guys.
i had this same problem and I just changed the spark plug and it stoped
06-07-2018, 09:39 AM
#11
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