orion rush 13x2 running slow and hot
03-09-2005, 10:28 PM
#1
orion rush 13x2 running slow and hot
new orion rush double bearing 13x2 is running slow and hot.
rc10b4 3300mha bat, futaba mc330cr esc, deans plugs, running fine previously on other 13x2 motors.
i got the car out for a spin and it was going fine, then it lost speed all of a sudden. swapped the batts, still the same. unmounted the 13x2 and ran it on the desk, and its top speed bounces low for a while and might jump high for a few secs then back again. esc is running cool.
comms seems to be clean, brushes arent black or chipped, came good again for a bit after rebuilding. but then dropped off again. the timing is zeroed and either direction seems to have no effect. the orion is notched so you cant screw up the timings btw.
electrics seems to be getting a some interference, but otherwise okay.
i'm about to change brushes, replace the cap, play with the spacers some more, and if still nothing, i'll be swapping the armature into a spare newish can and endbell (last 13x2 had a coil blow out).
so yer, help?!?! any tips or insight would be sweet.
its getting so hot its starts to smell. and i dont wanna do that too much so i dont toast the magnets.
rc10b4 3300mha bat, futaba mc330cr esc, deans plugs, running fine previously on other 13x2 motors.
i got the car out for a spin and it was going fine, then it lost speed all of a sudden. swapped the batts, still the same. unmounted the 13x2 and ran it on the desk, and its top speed bounces low for a while and might jump high for a few secs then back again. esc is running cool.
comms seems to be clean, brushes arent black or chipped, came good again for a bit after rebuilding. but then dropped off again. the timing is zeroed and either direction seems to have no effect. the orion is notched so you cant screw up the timings btw.
electrics seems to be getting a some interference, but otherwise okay.
i'm about to change brushes, replace the cap, play with the spacers some more, and if still nothing, i'll be swapping the armature into a spare newish can and endbell (last 13x2 had a coil blow out).
so yer, help?!?! any tips or insight would be sweet.
its getting so hot its starts to smell. and i dont wanna do that too much so i dont toast the magnets.
03-10-2005, 09:19 AM
#2
Tech Adept
2K you gave everything
**EXCEPT**
Your gearing.
Been a long time since I ran buggies but as I recall I'd use about an 18/88-90 for most of them on a stock motor, I'd probably start off with a 14 or 15 for a 13T.
By all other indications - sounds like the brushes are not getting full contact or you're getting some sort of motor interference, are there internal capacitors installed, or did you install them?
**EXCEPT**
Your gearing.
Been a long time since I ran buggies but as I recall I'd use about an 18/88-90 for most of them on a stock motor, I'd probably start off with a 14 or 15 for a 13T.
By all other indications - sounds like the brushes are not getting full contact or you're getting some sort of motor interference, are there internal capacitors installed, or did you install them?
03-10-2005, 03:08 PM
#3
19/88
but it does all this while unmounted from the car as well.
i have changed brushes and replaced caps (external)
ran okay for a bit then dropped off again..
trying to work out if its slow with heat or wear .. maybe the armature is not round? or it rubbing somewhere?
both bearings are prefect. going to swap the armature next, but still at a loss to whats going on since its all new.
but it does all this while unmounted from the car as well.
i have changed brushes and replaced caps (external)
ran okay for a bit then dropped off again..
trying to work out if its slow with heat or wear .. maybe the armature is not round? or it rubbing somewhere?
both bearings are prefect. going to swap the armature next, but still at a loss to whats going on since its all new.
03-10-2005, 06:57 PM
#4
just tried again from a cold run, seconds into running it without load (not mounted in the car), it heated up and a bad smell came from it. initially good speed but dropped off. not even 15second run, i pulled the motor apart, brushes quiet hot but the armature was super heated on the stacks.
noticed the rear bearing wasnt seated complete back, but may have been from the armature remove, tad loose but the inner sleeve of the bearing is very easy to spin. ie. the bearing as a hole wasnt spinning..
i'll try again and see if it was the bearing but i doubt it, would have noticed it earlier and doesnt explain the stacks.
it doesnt seem to be arcing worse then my other motors, but seems to be the best reason so far.
noticed the rear bearing wasnt seated complete back, but may have been from the armature remove, tad loose but the inner sleeve of the bearing is very easy to spin. ie. the bearing as a hole wasnt spinning..
i'll try again and see if it was the bearing but i doubt it, would have noticed it earlier and doesnt explain the stacks.
it doesnt seem to be arcing worse then my other motors, but seems to be the best reason so far.
03-10-2005, 06:59 PM
#5
i put this in the rookie board cause i'm just starting back into cars as a hobbie again far about 7 years break. thought this might have been straight forward, but maybe i should have put this in the main rc offroad board??
pictures
pictures
Last edited by insane2k; 03-10-2005 at 07:30 PM.
03-10-2005, 10:33 PM
#6
Are those diodes ok, the right one looks melted?
are you sure the brushes have a good connection to the can, maybe add a drop of solder? Air is very resistive.
Other than that, not too sure. Try posting in the on-road forum, there is a lot of knowledge about motors there. I think there is even an orion thread which is monitored by orion techs.
SOrry I cannot be more help.
are you sure the brushes have a good connection to the can, maybe add a drop of solder? Air is very resistive.
Other than that, not too sure. Try posting in the on-road forum, there is a lot of knowledge about motors there. I think there is even an orion thread which is monitored by orion techs.
SOrry I cannot be more help.
03-10-2005, 10:46 PM
#7
the capcitors are okay, its just scuffed, it meters okay and noted lower interfearance with the higher rated dual caps.
from the wearing on the comm, the comm seems to be round. i'll throw up a pic of the brush wear, but it seems okay as well. i'll even see if i can get some video of it in action and what it does.
what do you mean by solder?.. where? on the end of the brush?
i'm going to try soldering the brushes onto the bell as well but otherwise the screws are down tight. as well i'm going to swap the armature, but i havent got to that yet..
.. sucks, i going out the track tomorrow morning and i dont have a good motor as yet. just a worn 16t .. sigh.
i'll post in the on the onroad eletric and link to this thread. save the duplicates.
from the wearing on the comm, the comm seems to be round. i'll throw up a pic of the brush wear, but it seems okay as well. i'll even see if i can get some video of it in action and what it does.
what do you mean by solder?.. where? on the end of the brush?
i'm going to try soldering the brushes onto the bell as well but otherwise the screws are down tight. as well i'm going to swap the armature, but i havent got to that yet..
.. sucks, i going out the track tomorrow morning and i dont have a good motor as yet. just a worn 16t .. sigh.
i'll post in the on the onroad eletric and link to this thread. save the duplicates.
03-10-2005, 10:51 PM
#8
yeah i meant solder around the screw where is connects to the endbel.
I cant see where your caps hit the endbell, but I am sure thats just the pictures.
Have you tried cleaning the bearings and the motor? could be a build of of copper causing arking?
Does the armature move up/down when in the can, is there much play, it should move a little, but not be locked in there solidly.
Just throwing ideas out...
I cant see where your caps hit the endbell, but I am sure thats just the pictures.
Have you tried cleaning the bearings and the motor? could be a build of of copper causing arking?
Does the armature move up/down when in the can, is there much play, it should move a little, but not be locked in there solidly.
Just throwing ideas out...
03-11-2005, 12:24 PM
#9
Tech Elite
Re: orion rush 13x2 running slow and hot
Originally posted by insane2k
new orion rush double bearing 13x2 is running slow and hot.
rc10b4 3300mha bat, futaba mc330cr esc, deans plugs, running fine previously on other 13x2 motors.
i got the car out for a spin and it was going fine, then it lost speed all of a sudden. swapped the batts, still the same. unmounted the 13x2 and ran it on the desk, and its top speed bounces low for a while and might jump high for a few secs then back again. esc is running cool.
comms seems to be clean, brushes arent black or chipped, came good again for a bit after rebuilding. but then dropped off again. the timing is zeroed and either direction seems to have no effect. the orion is notched so you cant screw up the timings btw.
electrics seems to be getting a some interference, but otherwise okay.
i'm about to change brushes, replace the cap, play with the spacers some more, and if still nothing, i'll be swapping the armature into a spare newish can and endbell (last 13x2 had a coil blow out).
so yer, help?!?! any tips or insight would be sweet.
its getting so hot its starts to smell. and i dont wanna do that too much so i dont toast the magnets.
new orion rush double bearing 13x2 is running slow and hot.
rc10b4 3300mha bat, futaba mc330cr esc, deans plugs, running fine previously on other 13x2 motors.
i got the car out for a spin and it was going fine, then it lost speed all of a sudden. swapped the batts, still the same. unmounted the 13x2 and ran it on the desk, and its top speed bounces low for a while and might jump high for a few secs then back again. esc is running cool.
comms seems to be clean, brushes arent black or chipped, came good again for a bit after rebuilding. but then dropped off again. the timing is zeroed and either direction seems to have no effect. the orion is notched so you cant screw up the timings btw.
electrics seems to be getting a some interference, but otherwise okay.
i'm about to change brushes, replace the cap, play with the spacers some more, and if still nothing, i'll be swapping the armature into a spare newish can and endbell (last 13x2 had a coil blow out).
so yer, help?!?! any tips or insight would be sweet.
its getting so hot its starts to smell. and i dont wanna do that too much so i dont toast the magnets.
when a low quailty brush is used it leaves a coating on the com from the brush its self and makes the motor sluggish
also you should be running 15 to 18 degrees timming
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