Brushless motor systems..What to get?
#1
Im interested in buying a Novak OR EZRUN brushless system. I need help on knowing if the EZRUN systems are okay for off-road racing in a Team Losi xxxtcr?? If not EZRUN systems, i want Novak! What Novak system would be good for racing with??
The only reason i look into EZRUN is the pricing, its within my budget. But on ebay it seems very cheap so i just dont know if thats a bad or good thing. Thanks! Also, what is a good turn for a brushless motor? (ex. 5.5, 13.5, etc..) Thanks!
The only reason i look into EZRUN is the pricing, its within my budget. But on ebay it seems very cheap so i just dont know if thats a bad or good thing. Thanks! Also, what is a good turn for a brushless motor? (ex. 5.5, 13.5, etc..) Thanks!
Last edited by TLRacer1993; 09-20-2011 at 09:31 AM. Reason: Missing Information
#2
Your turn motor and possibly even your ESC will be dictated by your local tracks' rules for racing if that's what you want to get into.
In most places, there is usually a stock class, which is usually 17.5 and then an open class which is what it sounds like and so on but most racers use nothing more powerful than a 7.5-8.5 in a truck like yours. You'll want to start in a stock class though so double check your local tracks' rules as they may also require you to have an ESC with a "blinky mode". A list of those ESC's is available here,
For the ESC, if you're going to go lower-end (i.e. not LRP, Orion, Tekin, etc.) I see no reason not to buy the HobbyWing (aka, EZrun, Xerun) ESC over anything Novak makes these days. While they are not without their supporters still, the argument can be made that their manufacturing quality and feature sets on their ESC's are now decidedly downmarket. Don't let a reputation that was made 25 years ago persuade you into buying into their "brand-name". If you absolutely have to have something Novak, their GTB2 is probably the best way to go as it's cheap enough to be treated as disposable if something goes off and/or you outgrow it. If you're willing to spend more than the cost of that model, you should be looking at a different brand, IMO.
In most places, there is usually a stock class, which is usually 17.5 and then an open class which is what it sounds like and so on but most racers use nothing more powerful than a 7.5-8.5 in a truck like yours. You'll want to start in a stock class though so double check your local tracks' rules as they may also require you to have an ESC with a "blinky mode". A list of those ESC's is available here,
For the ESC, if you're going to go lower-end (i.e. not LRP, Orion, Tekin, etc.) I see no reason not to buy the HobbyWing (aka, EZrun, Xerun) ESC over anything Novak makes these days. While they are not without their supporters still, the argument can be made that their manufacturing quality and feature sets on their ESC's are now decidedly downmarket. Don't let a reputation that was made 25 years ago persuade you into buying into their "brand-name". If you absolutely have to have something Novak, their GTB2 is probably the best way to go as it's cheap enough to be treated as disposable if something goes off and/or you outgrow it. If you're willing to spend more than the cost of that model, you should be looking at a different brand, IMO.
#4
He means that even though, in his opinion, Novak has slipped in the quality department, they still have their fans and supporters of that particular manufacturer.
#5
Or, to use another term, I don't think there's an RC company out there without at least a few fanboys.
#7
Again, if you're going to race, you need to see what your local track has as far as classes go. No use buying a combo pack and then finding out you'll need another motor anyway.
That being said, if my budget was roughly in the range of the cost of that combo, I would look for a used top-of-the-line LRP ESC (example: http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...-esc-sale.html - not mine) and then pair that with a purchased new 8.5 motor such as this and you'll have a much more racer-oriented setup.
#9
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Novak-Havoc-...item2eb7e32321 ---Could you let me know if this is good for beginner racing?? I read an article that NAVAK wrote about sensored and sensoreless and sensored seems like a good choice. Agree or disagree? Thanks!
#10
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Novak-Havoc-...item2eb7e32321 ---Could you let me know if this is good for beginner racing?? I read an article that NAVAK wrote about sensored and sensoreless and sensored seems like a good choice. Agree or disagree? Thanks!
Many times the beginner classes follow the stock class rules that I outlined above so don't fixate on getting an 8.5.
That's a bit of an older discontinued Novak system. It won't be bad but you're looking at $168 with shipping - I also outlined how you can get a current and much more futureproof setup for @$200 by mixing and matching higher-end used and new parts.
#12
hobbywing XErun are great systems. i've been running them for years.
the EZruns are ok for bashing, XEruns are sensored and better for racing.
i like XEruns better then the novak systems i have had, but i like my tekin rs alot more.
the EZruns are ok for bashing, XEruns are sensored and better for racing.
i like XEruns better then the novak systems i have had, but i like my tekin rs alot more.
#13
Yes, you want sensored to get into racing. It is smoother, period. If you were just bashing around your yard, I would have probably already recommended one of the Castle ESC/motors anyway but you did mention racing in your first post.
Many times the beginner classes follow the stock class rules that I outlined above so don't fixate on getting an 8.5.
That's a bit of an older discontinued Novak system. It won't be bad but you're looking at $168 with shipping - I also outlined how you can get a current and much more futureproof setup for @$200 by mixing and matching higher-end used and new parts.
Many times the beginner classes follow the stock class rules that I outlined above so don't fixate on getting an 8.5.
That's a bit of an older discontinued Novak system. It won't be bad but you're looking at $168 with shipping - I also outlined how you can get a current and much more futureproof setup for @$200 by mixing and matching higher-end used and new parts.
#14
#15



