Noob in OKC looking for advice on getting started
#1
Noob in OKC looking for advice on getting started
I've been looking at getting into r/c over the past year. Now I am coming to a point financially where I can actually delve into the hobby so I'm looking for some pointers.
Firstly, I am definitely looking to get into actual competition as opposed to just backyard bashing (though I do have a large backyard). As such, I'm curious as to whether nitro or electric is more prevalent in the central OKC area. (I see a lot of indoor activity going on at the track off of 89th street.)
I've been eyeing 1/10 stadium trucks (like the AE RC10T4 or GT) since, from what I've read, they seem to be good entry level cars (it would appear buggies are a bit more of a challenge). But I'm really just looking for the class and type (nitro/electric) that would get me right into the middle of things locally.
Thanks for any info.
Firstly, I am definitely looking to get into actual competition as opposed to just backyard bashing (though I do have a large backyard). As such, I'm curious as to whether nitro or electric is more prevalent in the central OKC area. (I see a lot of indoor activity going on at the track off of 89th street.)
I've been eyeing 1/10 stadium trucks (like the AE RC10T4 or GT) since, from what I've read, they seem to be good entry level cars (it would appear buggies are a bit more of a challenge). But I'm really just looking for the class and type (nitro/electric) that would get me right into the middle of things locally.
Thanks for any info.
#2
It really depends on what you like.. Is it off-road or on-road?
#3
Originally Posted by Trend
It really depends on what you like.. Is it off-road or on-road?
#4
Well for both there is pros and cons:
Nitros pros are in the long run they are cheaper and you never have to worry about your battery to dump in the middle of the race and the parts are more durable so you will have more money to invest into upgrades. The down fall is that the tires are going to need to be replaced probably every two to three weeks (depending on how hard you race and the track type). You also Have a serious cleaning job every race and the engine tuning can sometimes be a hassle.
Electrics pros are that they are a lot cleaner the tire change is four to six weeks. Also to many people It is a lot easier to drive and handle. The cons of an electric rc is that the battery can dump at any time and when i mean dump i mean die . It also cost a lot more in the long run because of the cost of batteries and you always have to clean the motor. It also doesn't satisfy your need for speed
The last thing i want to tell you is go down to the track and see what classes they have and ask all the local hot shots what they started out with. Also personally i would get the new rc10gt RTR by associated and as you progress upgrade it to the pro kit and get a better engine like the .12 from sirio or LRP. If you have any more questions just ask.
Nitros pros are in the long run they are cheaper and you never have to worry about your battery to dump in the middle of the race and the parts are more durable so you will have more money to invest into upgrades. The down fall is that the tires are going to need to be replaced probably every two to three weeks (depending on how hard you race and the track type). You also Have a serious cleaning job every race and the engine tuning can sometimes be a hassle.
Electrics pros are that they are a lot cleaner the tire change is four to six weeks. Also to many people It is a lot easier to drive and handle. The cons of an electric rc is that the battery can dump at any time and when i mean dump i mean die . It also cost a lot more in the long run because of the cost of batteries and you always have to clean the motor. It also doesn't satisfy your need for speed
The last thing i want to tell you is go down to the track and see what classes they have and ask all the local hot shots what they started out with. Also personally i would get the new rc10gt RTR by associated and as you progress upgrade it to the pro kit and get a better engine like the .12 from sirio or LRP. If you have any more questions just ask.
#6
The first thing you have to do is hang out at your local track and see what's running and what looks like the most fun to you.
With electric, packs dumping is rarely an issue anymore. At a large weekend race, I usually only hear 1-2 people say their packed dump and it's usually followed by 'I must have grabbed the wrong pack'. If you get decent to good batteries and a good charger you'll be fine. Before you buy $20 stick packs, consider buying another racer's used 3800-4200 matched packs.
If you decide on Nitro, you might want to consider the Truggy class. The 2wd nitro class appears to be more of a dying breed. I've only been racing a couple years and have yet to see it be run on a track in my area. 1/8th scale buggies and truggies are the classes that generally run every week.
If you're a really competitive person and think you'll stick with the hobby, the best advice is to buy kits and middle to top end equipment to start with. Otherwise, you'll likely be looking to upgrade in no time. If your goal is to hang out and have a good time and see if you like it you can approach it differently and buy a T4 Race Spec or a RTR Truggy and start there.
With electric, packs dumping is rarely an issue anymore. At a large weekend race, I usually only hear 1-2 people say their packed dump and it's usually followed by 'I must have grabbed the wrong pack'. If you get decent to good batteries and a good charger you'll be fine. Before you buy $20 stick packs, consider buying another racer's used 3800-4200 matched packs.
If you decide on Nitro, you might want to consider the Truggy class. The 2wd nitro class appears to be more of a dying breed. I've only been racing a couple years and have yet to see it be run on a track in my area. 1/8th scale buggies and truggies are the classes that generally run every week.
If you're a really competitive person and think you'll stick with the hobby, the best advice is to buy kits and middle to top end equipment to start with. Otherwise, you'll likely be looking to upgrade in no time. If your goal is to hang out and have a good time and see if you like it you can approach it differently and buy a T4 Race Spec or a RTR Truggy and start there.
#7
something like this is good to start out with (not trying to sell it to you but trying to show you a good starter truck and what you should use for begging).
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...05#post3187905
first thing to notice is the truck. losi xxx-t is a good starter. there rtr kit (if they still have one thats not brushless) is good for racing. also notice the stick packs. the 3600 cost me around 30$...
with that being said, you don't need the best of the best to get you started. buy the rc10t4 and a few stick packs and a charger and you'll be on your way.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...05#post3187905
first thing to notice is the truck. losi xxx-t is a good starter. there rtr kit (if they still have one thats not brushless) is good for racing. also notice the stick packs. the 3600 cost me around 30$...
with that being said, you don't need the best of the best to get you started. buy the rc10t4 and a few stick packs and a charger and you'll be on your way.
#8
Tech Master
iTrader: (49)
Assoc stuff is better supported here in 10th scale, car to use indoor is a tc3 for truck or late model, and sprint class everyone has a CW enforcer. Outside the 10gt or gt2 is the way to go for EDM, tc3 for 10th late model, and an ofna buggy for the super l8's class , the nitro sprints are a medley of brands.
not saying different cars wont work, they may work well or better, depeding on driver but if you bring in a tc3 and ask for setup help we can dial you in really quick, same with an rc10gt outside or a CW sprinter inside. that and if you say bring a tamaya touring car adn break, prob not going to find parts, if you have an assoc car or truck, smash the wall at will, parts are plentiful.
not saying different cars wont work, they may work well or better, depeding on driver but if you bring in a tc3 and ask for setup help we can dial you in really quick, same with an rc10gt outside or a CW sprinter inside. that and if you say bring a tamaya touring car adn break, prob not going to find parts, if you have an assoc car or truck, smash the wall at will, parts are plentiful.