TLR 22S / street tires / setup tips?
#1
TLR 22S / street tires / setup tips?
I'd like to play around with my Losi 22S SCT on the street. I bought a set of ProLine Street Fighter tires/wheels for it and have them installed. I haven't made any suspension adjustments yet. While I don't plan to actually race it, I'd like some ideas on what basic adjustments I can make to help with cornering and handling on asphalt/concrete surfaces. I've already upgraded the turnbuckles to adjustable kind, and I have a RPM camber gauge. The shocks are stock though and have little clips that change how much of the spring it pushes down.
I don't really know anything about what adjusting shocks does. I do have a vague understanding that adding a degree or two of negative camber will help with cornering grip, because more of the tire will be contacting the surface. Everything else, I'm pretty n00b with.
I'd really appreciate some tips and ideas here, and if you feel like taking the time to explain things a little more in detail, I welcome the chance to learn a little something.
Thanks!
I don't really know anything about what adjusting shocks does. I do have a vague understanding that adding a degree or two of negative camber will help with cornering grip, because more of the tire will be contacting the surface. Everything else, I'm pretty n00b with.
I'd really appreciate some tips and ideas here, and if you feel like taking the time to explain things a little more in detail, I welcome the chance to learn a little something.
Thanks!
#2
Bashing on asphalt can be tricky. The surface temperature has everything to do with how your truck will perform. Generally you want soft suspension when its cold/loose. But when that asphalt heats up on a warm day, its going to be very grippy.
So having the correct tires is going to be your main concern. Tires are 80% of your setup. Im a racer but the same rules apply to bashing. So cold/loose= soft tire. Warm/high traction= firm.
I would suggest downloading a site called RCCHEATSHEETS. Its basically an encyclopedia of rc tuning.
....when the traction is up you want a low ride height. Stiffer springs/thicker shock oils. Thicker sway bars. More camber. But remember for anything gained,, theres something to be lost somewhere else.. Tuning is a balancing act.
For now, try lowering the ride height and laying your shocks down. ( Vertical shocks are more reactive and tippy) You'll gain corner speed but lose some jumping ability. Also try a bit of camber. Again, more cornering ability but you'll lose some straight line acceleration.
You can invest in thicker sway bars, play around with stiffer springs and shock oils too. Coming back to my 1st suggestion, take a look at RCCHEATSHEETS. It will explain a lot.
So having the correct tires is going to be your main concern. Tires are 80% of your setup. Im a racer but the same rules apply to bashing. So cold/loose= soft tire. Warm/high traction= firm.
I would suggest downloading a site called RCCHEATSHEETS. Its basically an encyclopedia of rc tuning.
....when the traction is up you want a low ride height. Stiffer springs/thicker shock oils. Thicker sway bars. More camber. But remember for anything gained,, theres something to be lost somewhere else.. Tuning is a balancing act.
For now, try lowering the ride height and laying your shocks down. ( Vertical shocks are more reactive and tippy) You'll gain corner speed but lose some jumping ability. Also try a bit of camber. Again, more cornering ability but you'll lose some straight line acceleration.
You can invest in thicker sway bars, play around with stiffer springs and shock oils too. Coming back to my 1st suggestion, take a look at RCCHEATSHEETS. It will explain a lot.
#3
Streetfighters are a good, long lasting tire for casual asphalt racing or just running around. One of the problems SCTs have is lots of body roll. Not such a big deal when you're driving on dirt or any other lower traction surface. But asphalt will have lots more grip. The best thing you can do is lower it as much as you can by taking as much of the preload off the shocks. You might even consider using shorter shock springs. But what you really need to do is take pretty much all the droop out of it. You can do that with putting limiters on the shock shaft inside the shock under the piston. Cheap way to do this is nitro fuel tube. Measure how much droop you have, then cut 2 lengths of tubing to that length and install.
Granted this is a pain if you switch between running onroad and offroad.
Another method I've seen guys do is use zip ties around the shock tower and the camber link. Think it would be hard to get the same droop left to right, but it's quick and easily reversable.
Granted this is a pain if you switch between running onroad and offroad.
Another method I've seen guys do is use zip ties around the shock tower and the camber link. Think it would be hard to get the same droop left to right, but it's quick and easily reversable.